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Routes in SW Face Right (Monkey Business Wall)

Maw, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Monkey Business T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Paw, The S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Psychocandy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Right Between the Eyes T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Roast Leg of Chair T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Roofing Company T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
White Line Fever T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Bob Gaines & Pat Dennis, January 2003
Page Views: 192 total · 1/month
Shared By: Russ Walling on Feb 17, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A nice little sport route on good rock. Crux is at mid height with another mini crux right at the top. Rating a bit height dependant, and luck dependant if you shoot for any out of reach holds.

Location

This route is just to the right of Maw. Maw and Pa are on the South Face of the formation. If you continue around to the right of these routes about 50ft you will see the route Point Of No Return.

Protection

4 bolts and one fixed pin. Gated shuts at the top.

Photos

susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.10
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.10
Fixed pin is between the 3rd & 4th bolt in a horizontal crack. I didn't see it from the ground. Mid-section crux that Russ describes does provide good hands if you committ to crap initially (at least if you're 5.7) - they definately get more positive as you move up.

Going for the shuts was steep for me and I had to use a horizontal pocket to gain clipping stance. Russ bypassed all that and went straight for the top.

Rating 5.10 if you're 5'7" or under - 5.9 if you're taller than that.

Worth doing while in the area. Feb 17, 2007
Drederek
  5.10b/c
Drederek  
  5.10b/c
Plugged in a yellow metolius next to the pin, don't replace it when it falls out. A definite crux in the middle for me. Apr 6, 2009
Jeff Scheuerell
  5.10c
Jeff Scheuerell  
  5.10c
I thought both The Maw and The Paw were worth doing if in the area or looking for morning sun.

Aren't those gated shuts spendy? Found it odd to have those on such a short so-so route but thanks, easy lower off. Also thought they were kinda close together? Dec 20, 2009
Will S
Joshua Tree
 
Will S   Joshua Tree
 
Is this thing not Wage and Price Ceiling, listed as a TR in the old Vogel, but now with bolts? Seems like the only place it could be since the Space Slot is the obvious next line to the right.

Crux is height dependent, felt closer to 10+ than 10b to me. Fixed angle is still bomber, but you can back it up with a finger or rattly finger sized cam (yellow tcu/alien/c3, or orange tcu/red alien etc).

Good rock, fun climbing, woefully short but worth doing. Nov 21, 2011
Bob Gaines
  5.10b/c
Bob Gaines  
  5.10b/c
Wage and Price Ceiling (5.10d TR) is located about 40 feet left of The Paw

It is a very short TR immediately left of The Maw (10a)

Space Slot is way to the left, beginning from the ledge above Monkey Business and Roofing Company Nov 21, 2011
Will S
Joshua Tree
 
Will S   Joshua Tree
 
Just went back and looked at the photo in Vogel photo and I was totally mixed up where Space Slot was going off just the written description and order, figured it was the wide crack just left of Point of No Return. Makes sense now. Nov 22, 2011
mhagny Hagny
  5.10b/c
mhagny Hagny  
  5.10b/c
I'm 5'11'' and this still feels like a .10! Feb 20, 2017

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