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Routes in SW Face Right (Monkey Business Wall)

Maw, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Monkey Business T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Paw, The S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Psychocandy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Right Between the Eyes T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Roast Leg of Chair T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Roofing Company T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
White Line Fever T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Bob Gaines & Yvonne Gaines, January 2003
Page Views: 186 total · 1/month
Shared By: Russ Walling on Feb 17, 2007
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Sort of an odd route. It is a very segmented pitch with easy boulder problems at each bolt. Do a problem, stand on a ledge... do a problem, stand on an ledge. There are chain anchors on the top of the formation to rap from. If you want to rap after doing Monkey Business you can scramble up to these anchors and then TR this route as a bonus.


This route is just right of an old top rope called Wage and Price Ceiling. It starts just around the corner to the SW of Monkey Business.


Bolts, chains on top.


susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
Route looks unimpressive from the ground and not so difficult. The start is easy .8 crack to a ledge. Moving onto the face past the first bolt is a bit awkward and the same story of pseudo hard/awkward move when stepping across from the block further up onto the headwall. I was surprised it had any cruxy moves on it at all.

Strange route - OK to TR if you used the anchor to rap from other routes. Not hard to lead, it just wouldn't be worth the trouble.

~Susan Feb 17, 2007
Bob Gaines
Bob Gaines  
Named after the gaping chasm you must stem across to get to the top face. Much more exciting to lead, with good pro (4 bolts plus thin to 2"), although I saw one leader fall down into "the Maw" with an inattentive belayer. It's a fun and somewhat committing lead. Feb 18, 2007
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
Bob..."much more exciting to lead", isn't that the truth! Today's activities were pretty grim actually pulled through at the crux (talk about POOR style!). Funny I didn't remember any part of the route until reaching the step across section.

Star rating is going up. Route takes nice pro down low before getting to bolts (if needed) nicely placed bolts protecting the crux moves to bolted anchors. Sounds like a 3 star mega-classic to me.

~Susan Nov 20, 2011
DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
I followed this last March. I found the moves somewhat delicate with 3 distinct crux sections... one on each tier. Worth doing. May 11, 2014
Bob Gaines
Bob Gaines  
Not a sport climb. Unless you want to solo 5.8 to get to the first bolt (about 20 feet up), you'll want some pro to protect the start. I used a #1 metolius (.6 inches) and a #1 camalot (1.5 inches). After that you've got 4 bolts for pro to the top.

The move past the first bolt is a balancey 10a; 5.9 past the second bolt, then 10a/b past the two bolts on the top headwall. The step-across to the top headwall (spanning "the maw") is somewhat leg length and height dependent. Jan 21, 2015
Derek Field
Flagstaff, AZ
Derek Field   Flagstaff, AZ
After topping out the roof on Monkey Business and belaying up your follower, wander over to the far right side of the ledge and hop aboard the 2nd bolt of The Maw. Makes for a diverse 2-pitch outing I like to call Monkey's Maw.

This route climbs like a series of boulder problems. The final section (2 bolts) of thin edge-pulling on slightly overhanging rock warrants a .10b grade. Jan 17, 2017

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