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Routes in SW Face Right (Monkey Business Wall)

Maw, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Monkey Business T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Paw, The S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Psychocandy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Right Between the Eyes T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Roast Leg of Chair T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Roofing Company T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
White Line Fever T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Steve Godshall, John Wolfe and Mona Stahl, October 1971
Page Views: 143 total, 16/month
Shared By: Andrew Ingals on Mar 14, 2017
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A nice, single pitch trad route on the left-hand side of the Monkey Business Wall. The first section consists of a slaby ramp with a few cracks/flakes that will take smaller active/passive projection (recommend smaller cams on the flakes). You can follow the original line (as annotated with the hashed markings veering left) or you can take the more direct slab ramp (annotated along continuous red line) leading up to the base of the prominent and right-most crack leading to the base of the giant block atop the wall/feature. There are no bolts along the route or anchor hardware at the top. Once completing the route, simply walk off and scramble down the opposite side of the face (NNW of the feature). Leader can set up an anchor station using protection and slings at the top to belay the seconding climber. While MP has this route depicted in an image attributed to other routes along the right-hand portion of the same face, there was no specific beta attributed to this route.

Location

This route is located along the left-hand portion of the Monkey Business Wall, located on the SW Face of Little Hunk within the greater Echo Rock Area.

Protection

Ample options for small to medium sized passive and active protection (BD Camalots #2 and smaller / nuts of all sizes / BD hexcentrics of medium to smaller size) throughout the entire route. The first 20-30 feet of the route requires the smallest sized protection with the second half of the route consisting of a generous crack ideal for placing passive pro (nuts/stoppers/hexcentrics) if so inclined.
Andrew Ingals
Lake Forest
 
Andrew Ingals   Lake Forest
 
Please note I am neither the creator of this route nor did I make the first ascent. I saw this route in an image posted by C Miller in 2010, for which he posted an updated picture recently. My buddies and I climbed it in February 2017 and had a blast. Noting it was not listed among the routes with beta, I took it upon myself to add this route to the MP listings. Thanks! Mar 16, 2017