Roast Leg of Chair
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British PG13
Avg: 1.5 from 2 votes
Type: | Trad, 130 ft (39 m) |
FA: | Steve Godshall, John Wolfe and Mona Stahl, October 1971 |
Page Views: | 1,003 total · 11/month |
Shared By: | Andrew Ingals on Mar 14, 2017 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
A nice, single pitch trad route on the left-hand side of the Monkey Business Wall.
The first section consists of a slabby ramp with a few cracks/flakes that will take smaller active/passive projection (recommend smaller cams on the flakes). You can follow the original line (as annotated with the hashed markings veering left) or you can take the more direct slab ramp (annotated along continuous red line) leading up to the base of the prominent and right-most crack leading to the base of the giant block atop the wall/feature.
There are no bolts along the route or anchor hardware at the top. Once completing the route, simply walk off and scramble down the opposite side of the face (NNW of the feature). Leader can set up an anchor station using protection and slings at the top to belay the seconding climber.
Location
Protection
Ample options for small to medium sized passive and active protection (BD Camalots #2 and smaller / nuts of all sizes / BD hexcentrics of medium to smaller size) throughout the entire route.
The first 20-30 feet of the route requires the smallest sized protection with the second half of the route consisting of a generous crack ideal for placing passive pro (nuts/stoppers/hexcentrics) if so inclined.
1 Comment