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Routes in SW Face Right (Monkey Business Wall)

Maw, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Monkey Business T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Paw, The S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Psychocandy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Right Between the Eyes T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Roast Leg of Chair T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Roofing Company T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
White Line Fever T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Tony Yaniro, 1974
Page Views: 990 total, 7/month
Shared By: C Miller on Nov 10, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Description

Climb a short vertical crack and then head out the prominent roof which goes much easier than appearances suggest due to the many small edges for your feet and some massive flakes for your hands. Two stars out of five.

  • Also known, long ago, as the "Price Ceiling".

Location

Just left of Monkey Business.

Protection

Gear to 3.5"
Nathan Scherneck
Portland, OR
  5.10a
Nathan Scherneck   Portland, OR
  5.10a
Good fun. I'd avoid pro-ing in the plates overhead. They're not loose but a leader fall with pro up there would put serious stress on them. Good pro in the crack with a BD #6 and #3. #4 after turning the roof. Nov 6, 2011
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.9+
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.9+
Last time I did the route I took my shirt off and stuffed it in the crack to keep the rope out of there as I passed the lip. I think there was a stuck Camalot in there too that Sooze bootied? Now-a-days I guess you could stuff a beanie in there instead of a shirt. Nice route! Oct 23, 2007
Adam D
Los Osos, CA
Adam D   Los Osos, CA
It's easy for the rope to get stuck in the cams in the roof crack when you're belaying the 2nd (like on lots of roofs). A big hex once you pass the lip (a #11 works nice but something a little smaller might go too) makes everything smooth. Short but nice. Oct 23, 2007
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
Fun route - sorry I didn't lead it as it takes good pro and is extremely fun. Use flakes behind you for pro and feet. Route provides excellent hand jams after turning the lip. Fun, fun fun Feb 16, 2007
tony grice  
 
Nice roof route. Sunny.Step up from monkey bus. Bring the big gear. Great holds in heucos behind you. Nov 10, 2006