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Routes in Technicolor Wall

60 Beers Later T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Baby Blue T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Barkolounger T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Big Red T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Color Me Bad T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Crowning , The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
David T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Gobbler, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
GoldenEye T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Goliath T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
H-Man T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Laz-Y-Boy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Matete T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mono T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mr Pink T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
On the Up and Up T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sampson T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a X
Technicolor T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unknown T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unnamed T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed 12- T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unnamed 5.10 (left) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unnamed 5.10- T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unnamed, Jr. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Whale's Back T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,137 total, 36/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Feb 8, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Beautiful corner hand crack! First 30 feet or so vary in quality until you lob yourself over the large hump to a ledge. From there enduro up the corner to the chain anchors.

Protection

Pro: Bottom section uses #3 Camalots, take PLENTY of #2s for the top.
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10d
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10d
one of my favorite 5.10's. I love the way the rock fractures out those scoops and dish patterns.
I had 6/ #3, 6/ #2, 2/ #4 and several smaller Camalots. I down climbed the last part on lead after pulling the rap rope to the ledge. Book has no mention other than it being 130' to anchor. Jan 12, 2014
MTKirk
Billings, MT
MTKirk   Billings, MT
My 70m didn't reach, not even close. I think the best strategy is to bring up the second from the anchors. You can then lower(or rap one strand) the second down to the ground. To clean the anchor you can rap with a 70m to a ledge to climbers left, pull the rope from this ledge, then do a 5.4? down climb 20'+/- climbers left of route.

I had six #2 camalots and wished I had eight, I had to set one of them backwards in the crack at the top of the bulge to keep rope drag/piece pushing to a minimum. Other than the rope management issues, this line is incredible. The rock is of the highest quality and there is a variety of different moves, easily one of the best 10's at the creek. Apr 2, 2013
my 70 did reach. (actually about 3 ft short on each end). amazing route! Dec 3, 2009
alf
  5.10a/b PG13
alf  
  5.10a/b PG13
dear Barnes,

thanks for replacing the bolts.

I think that it is OK to place the bolts in a new spot if you think that you can reduce the rope wear on the rock.

In this case, an anchor further right would have made the route easier to clean, and created far less rope drag. Aug 3, 2009
Really fun, long route and great confidence booster for the grade (to be honest though, I'd call it a 10c or d with my hands). Jun 2, 2009
Greg Barnes  
 
A 70m doesn't reach, we tried. The route is probably 130' tall.

We replaced the anchor in Sept. '07. One of the original bolts pulled out with not much effort (even still had the price tag on the bolt!), but the other huge weird bolt with homemade aluminum hanger is still there since I didn't have the right gear to try removing it and it's cool to see some original homemade funky stuff now and then (particularly when you don't have to rap from it!).

Be careful about placing cam(s) near the top of the first section, since it's easy for the rope to drag them into the crack when you get on the rest ledge. Apr 22, 2009
claytown
Boulder, CO
  5.11-
claytown   Boulder, CO
  5.11-
What a stellar route! This wall doesn't get much traffic. The approach and the base of the wall kinda suck for walking (loose and no real trails) but the routes are good.

Right facing wide hands corner changes to left facing thin hands. Becomes perfect hands for a long way. A 70 might get back down with stretch but we trailed a rope. must do route!! Mar 31, 2008
Jeff G.
Fort Collins
  5.10d
Jeff G.   Fort Collins
  5.10d
The upper part of this route is a beauty! Sustained #3 friends, which is perfect hands for me, so I found it a little easier than the 11- rating. Nov 13, 2006
Climbers with large hands will find the top part of this climb more difficult. I thought it was 5.10c. My partners with smaller hands said 5.10a or b. Mar 1, 2006
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11-
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11-
While the guide suggests that large hands would benefit the ascensionist, I did not find it so, and neither did my 5'5" female partner who has very small hands. Don't let that scare you off of the route. Feb 27, 2006