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Routes in Technicolor Wall

60 Beers Later T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Baby Blue T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Barkolounger T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Big Red T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Color Me Bad T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Crowning , The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
David T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Gobbler, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
GoldenEye T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Goliath T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
H-Man T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Laz-Y-Boy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Matete T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mono T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mr Pink T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
On the Up and Up T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sampson T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a X
Technicolor T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unknown T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unnamed T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed 12- T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unnamed 5.10 (left) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unnamed 5.10- T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unnamed, Jr. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Whale's Back T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,209 total, 20/month
Shared By: Duncan P Ryan on Nov 28, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Climb through broken cracks in a dihedral for 25 feet to gain a ledge. Either start jamming a good hand crack right off the ledge or stem into it a few feet up. Enter a shallow left facing dihedral for 20 feet before pulling onto the face where the crack narrows gradually from hands to tight fingers with marginal feet to the right. The last 20 feet angle back left with very tight fingers to anchors on a ledge.

Location

First route to the right of David. About 200 feet left from On the Up and Up.

Protection

A pair of rings for an anchor up top. Mostly .75" and 1" for the lower sections and finger sizes for the top. A 70m rope barely gets you back to terra firma.

Photos

I red-pointed the monstrous 2nd pitch of Goliath for the FFA. Recommended rack: 2x 6" cams (Wild Country fit better than BD), 3-4x Green Bros, 1x Blue Bro and a 9" Valley Giant is helpful. Burl blue-collar offwidthing -- physical and emotional whipping. I felt it was harder than the Mayor which is a bench-mark 12a. Oct 27, 2013
alf
 
alf  
 
i cleaned the whole pitch from the top, concentrating on the insane off width starting at 35 meters.

I gave the first pitch to adam, who worked it quickly, and gave it a classical grade.
He placed a marvelous equalized two bolt first anchor.
I have been top roping the second pitch, which I believe to be 5.12 off width.

It starts 6 cammalot and gets bigger slowly. There is about 8 meters of flake, and then the remainder of pitch 2 is straight in crack with curious face features here and there.

About 8 meters from anchor 2, there is a directional/protection bolt that keeps the rope to the right, and protects a section where big bros work poorly.

The second anchor is also two large chains. I have never made it past the directional bolt clean. The crack leans and is a tough size.

cheers Aug 2, 2009
ABaxter
Estes Park, CO
 
ABaxter   Estes Park, CO
 
This is one of my favorite pitches at the Creek. It is varied and has a little bit of everything, including a sporty finish if you dare use the super soft face holds outside the finger crack. This thing is proper 5.11, but perhaps sandbagged when compared to the typical 5.11 IC fare. Thanks Alf, enjoyed the tour on Party Ledge! May 30, 2009
I did the FFA of this pitch and called it 5.11... the next few people that i brought to try it said it was a world class sandbag at 5.11 oh well... sweet route! Dec 25, 2008
Second pitch reaches the rim and is perhaps not freed yet. (Hard o/w... bring a buch of friend #6 and as many big bros you can find.)

Both pitches have been cleaned by Alf. Dec 2, 2008