Type: Trad, 125 ft
FA: Karl Kelley
Page Views: 3,693 total · 24/month
Shared By: Vince MacMillan on Feb 20, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


24 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

GoldenEye is located on the far west end of the south face of the Technicolor Wall. It is easiest to approach this route from the campsite on the valley floor as it is a long trudge across the slope from the nearest, Unnamed routes to the east. Whichever way you get there, the hike will be well worth it: a full 36+ meters of burly Canyonlands crack climbing.

The route starts out with rattly fingers, goes to finger stacks and thin hands, then a fairly long section of decent hands. Catch a rest in the wide-hands section before things go back to thin hands and finger stacks, with a 20 foot crux of steep, rattly-finger, cooler-than-Bond laybacking to the anchors. Arrive (shaking and stirred) at the perfectly positioned anchors.

Protection

Enough .5 through 3 Camalots (i.e. .75" to 3.5") to make you feel safe, emphasis on .5, .75, and #1 Camalots. Keep at least one .5 Camalot or 1.25 TechFriend in reserve for the steeeeep crux.

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tooTALLtim
Boulder, CO
 
tooTALLtim   Boulder, CO
 
Long walk, almost didn't make it! But WELL worth the hike. Incredible jamming in the middle leads to a fabulous layback to the chains! If you want a long corner, here's you're climb.

CAUTION! A 70m will not get you back to the ground, tie a knot in the end! Best to bring up your second, or make a intermediate belay at the top of the pillar (20ft off the deck). If you have a short or insecure second: lead it, get lowered to the pillar, make a belay for yourself. Then put your second on belay, and lower them to the ground after they have their fun! Then rap+downclimb yourself. Apr 21, 2008
Mike Munger
Boulder, Colorado
Mike Munger   Boulder, Colorado
Excellent route but if the lie back at the top is too burly you can stem to the crack on the right. Oct 23, 2008
J Mo
Tucson, AZ
 
J Mo   Tucson, AZ
 
Tie a knot in the 70 and down climb 5 very easy feet. Single 70 is fine but you gotta pay attention. No need for all the shenanigans described above though May 29, 2012
J. Hickok
Salida, CO
J. Hickok   Salida, CO
tooTALLtim: How about just bring two ropes? Sep 20, 2012
NickinCO
colorado
  5.10+
NickinCO   colorado
  5.10+
70m rope worked fine for us with about 5' to spare. Oct 22, 2012
FA. Karl Kelley Sep 4, 2014