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Techni-Construction
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.8 from 5
votes
Routes in Technicolor Wall
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60 Beers Later T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Baby Blue T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Barkolounger T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Big Red T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Color Me Bad T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Color Me Badass T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Crowning, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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David T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Gobbler, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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GoldenEye T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Goliath T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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H-Man T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Huecos for the Win T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Laz-Y-Boy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Matete T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mono T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Mr Pink T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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On the Up and Up T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Purple Rain T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Reach Around T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Sampson T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Strawberry Blondes V9 7C |
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Techni-Construction T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Technicolor T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Unknown T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Unknown Corner T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unknown/Artemis T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unnamed T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unnamed T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Unnamed 12- T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Unnamed 5.10 (left) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Unnamed 5.10- T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Whale's Back T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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“unknown” T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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| Type: | Trad, 130 ft (39 m) |
| FA: | Karl Kelley, Dylan Warren |
| Page Views: | 720 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Japhy Dhungana on Oct 30, 2019 |
| Admins: | slim, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities!
Details
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
2024 Raptor Avoidance Areas (LIFTED 9/10/2024)- The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. See map in photos section.
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, hawks, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls to build nests, often returning to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that visitors and recreationists avoid these areas during critical nesting periods which typically start in early March and last through late August. Avoiding recreational activity in the vicinity of the nest sites along and maintaining a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the public is asked to avoid climbing in areas that are historically known to have raptor nesting activity or have a high potential for nesting. Areas that have potential nesting activity are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall and Critic’s Choice. While this list serves as a guide, it does not indicate every avoidance area or encompass all known names of the affected climbing areas. Please refer to the provided “Raptor Protection Map” to identify avoidance areas. The BLM is coordinating these raptor protection efforts with the Utah School and Institutional Trust Lands Administration, who is the administrator of the climbing areas known as Disappointment Cliffs and portions of the Second Meat Wall climbing area. The avoidance areas only cover a portion of Disappointment Cliffs, see the map for additional details.
In March, BLM biologists will begin the annual surveys of raptor activity to verify which historic nest sites are being used. Typically, by late April or early May, biologists can identify the nesting areas the raptors have selected. At that time the areas without active nests will be cleared for recreational use. The BLM requests that climbers, campers, and hikers completely avoid areas with active nests until the young birds have fledged, which is usually by late summer. Biologists will monitor nesting activity throughout the season and keep the recreation community informed of potential changes. Avoidance area notices and maps will be posted throughout the Indian Creek Corridor during the recreation season.
While falcons and eagles are not overly common sights in southeastern Utah, they are present throughout the area and keen-eyed observers are sometimes rewarded with their aerial acrobatics. Visitors can watch adult birds hunt or observe the antics of young raptors perfecting their flying techniques. These species in Utah continue to recover from low population levels, thanks in part to cooperation from the public, climbing communities and governmental partners. The BLM would like to remind the public there are private land holdings throughout the Indian Creek Corridor. Please respect private landowners’ boundaries and signage.
For questions about this avoidance areas, raptors, and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Rachel Wootton with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500. Persons who use a telecommunications device for the deaf (TTY) may call 711 to leave a message or question. The TTY Relay System is available 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Replies are provided during normal business hours.
blm.gov/announcement/blm-an…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
2024 Raptor Avoidance Areas (LIFTED 9/10/2024)- The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. See map in photos section.
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, hawks, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls to build nests, often returning to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that visitors and recreationists avoid these areas during critical nesting periods which typically start in early March and last through late August. Avoiding recreational activity in the vicinity of the nest sites along and maintaining a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the public is asked to avoid climbing in areas that are historically known to have raptor nesting activity or have a high potential for nesting. Areas that have potential nesting activity are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall and Critic’s Choice. While this list serves as a guide, it does not indicate every avoidance area or encompass all known names of the affected climbing areas. Please refer to the provided “Raptor Protection Map” to identify avoidance areas. The BLM is coordinating these raptor protection efforts with the Utah School and Institutional Trust Lands Administration, who is the administrator of the climbing areas known as Disappointment Cliffs and portions of the Second Meat Wall climbing area. The avoidance areas only cover a portion of Disappointment Cliffs, see the map for additional details.
In March, BLM biologists will begin the annual surveys of raptor activity to verify which historic nest sites are being used. Typically, by late April or early May, biologists can identify the nesting areas the raptors have selected. At that time the areas without active nests will be cleared for recreational use. The BLM requests that climbers, campers, and hikers completely avoid areas with active nests until the young birds have fledged, which is usually by late summer. Biologists will monitor nesting activity throughout the season and keep the recreation community informed of potential changes. Avoidance area notices and maps will be posted throughout the Indian Creek Corridor during the recreation season.
While falcons and eagles are not overly common sights in southeastern Utah, they are present throughout the area and keen-eyed observers are sometimes rewarded with their aerial acrobatics. Visitors can watch adult birds hunt or observe the antics of young raptors perfecting their flying techniques. These species in Utah continue to recover from low population levels, thanks in part to cooperation from the public, climbing communities and governmental partners. The BLM would like to remind the public there are private land holdings throughout the Indian Creek Corridor. Please respect private landowners’ boundaries and signage.
For questions about this avoidance areas, raptors, and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Rachel Wootton with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500. Persons who use a telecommunications device for the deaf (TTY) may call 711 to leave a message or question. The TTY Relay System is available 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Replies are provided during normal business hours.
blm.gov/announcement/blm-an…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Start in a tight chimney with some loose chockstones you have to pass through. Staying on the outside of the chimney offers no pro other than big-bros, but its very enjoyable to go all the way in, where there is a twin set of cracks that accept good gear from fingers to hands. Any of these options is around 5.10.
After pulling out of the chimney, you'll find a single modern bolt and drilled angle at the base of the looming off-width crack above. This is the crux. Enter the offwidth, resist the urge to step on the drilled piton, and make a few difficult moves before features on the right wall offer relief. The final section of the route eases up to hands and fingers at a lower angle.
A fun and varied route thats well worth the effort. Excellent chimneying and off-width are the hallmarks of this route.
After pulling out of the chimney, you'll find a single modern bolt and drilled angle at the base of the looming off-width crack above. This is the crux. Enter the offwidth, resist the urge to step on the drilled piton, and make a few difficult moves before features on the right wall offer relief. The final section of the route eases up to hands and fingers at a lower angle.
A fun and varied route thats well worth the effort. Excellent chimneying and off-width are the hallmarks of this route.
Location
As you approach the cliff, this is to the right of Whale's Back and Sterling Silver (the bolted off-width). Identify it by the tight chimney start with chockstones wedged inside, with the crack tapering to a clean off-width and hands crack at the top near the chains. As of 10/2019, there is a tat anchor on good bolts visible from the ground.
Protection
0.5 to #5 camalot. Doubles in the 0.5 - 3 range. The offwidth itself best takes an old 4.5 camalot. A #4 is too tipped out, and a 5 is too tight, but if you bring 1-2 each of them, you'll find a place to slot them in. A few slings and quickdraws for rope-management and for the bolt protecting the opening moves of the offwidth.
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