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Techni-Construction
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.8 from 5
votes
Routes in Technicolor Wall
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60 Beers Later T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Baby Blue T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Barkolounger T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Big Red T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Color Blind (?) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Color Me Bad T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Color Me Badass T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Crowning, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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David T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Gobbler, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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GoldenEye T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Goliath T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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H-Man T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Huecos for the Win T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Laz-Y-Boy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Matete T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mono T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mr Pink T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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On the Up and Up T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Purple Rain T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Reach Around T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Sampson T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Strawberry Blondes V9 7C |
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Techni-Construction T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Technicolor T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Unknown T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Unknown Corner T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unknown/Artemis T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unnamed T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unnamed T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Unnamed 12- T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Unnamed 5.10 (left) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Unnamed 5.10- T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Whale's Back T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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“unknown” T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, 130 ft (39 m) |
| GPS: | 38.05715, -109.58647 |
| FA: | Karl Kelley, Dylan Warren |
| Page Views: | 864 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Japhy Dhungana on Oct 30, 2019 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities! Raptor Closures!
Details
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas.
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
Description
Start in a tight chimney with some loose chockstones you have to pass through. Staying on the outside of the chimney offers no pro other than big-bros, but its very enjoyable to go all the way in, where there is a twin set of cracks that accept good gear from fingers to hands. Any of these options is around 5.10.
After pulling out of the chimney, you'll find a single modern bolt and drilled angle at the base of the looming off-width crack above. This is the crux. Enter the offwidth, resist the urge to step on the drilled piton, and make a few difficult moves before features on the right wall offer relief. The final section of the route eases up to hands and fingers at a lower angle.
A fun and varied route thats well worth the effort. Excellent chimneying and off-width are the hallmarks of this route.
Location
As you approach the cliff, this is to the right of Whale's Back and Sterling Silver (the bolted off-width). Identify it by the tight chimney start with chockstones wedged inside, with the crack tapering to a clean off-width and hands crack at the top near the chains. As of 10/2019, there is a tat anchor on good bolts visible from the ground.
Protection
0.5 to #5 camalot. Doubles in the 0.5 - 3 range. The offwidth itself best takes an old 4.5 camalot. A #4 is too tipped out, and a 5 is too tight, but if you bring 1-2 each of them, you'll find a place to slot them in. A few slings and quickdraws for rope-management and for the bolt protecting the opening moves of the offwidth.
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