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Whale's Back

5.10+, Trad, 120 ft (36 m),  Avg: 3.7 from 203 votes
FA: unknown
Utah > Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Technicolor Wall
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Description

Beautiful corner hand crack! First 30 feet or so vary in quality until you lob yourself over the large hump to a ledge. From there enduro up the corner to the chain anchors.

Protection

Pro: Bottom section uses #3 Camalots, take PLENTY of #2s for the top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Francisco past the r-facing corner and sizing up the remaining l-facing corner.  Great jams just keep going!
[Hide Photo] Francisco past the r-facing corner and sizing up the remaining l-facing corner. Great jams just keep going!
photo of alf randell by garrett grove.
[Hide Photo] photo of alf randell by garrett grove.
Gettin things done on Whale's Back.
[Hide Photo] Gettin things done on Whale's Back.
Getting over the hump
[Hide Photo] Getting over the hump
Ian do his thing.  Very good long climb
[Hide Photo] Ian do his thing. Very good long climb
The Whale's Back takes the right-faceing to Left-facing corner system central to this pictute to a fixed anchor up top. Photo by T. Bubb, 2/2006.
[Hide Photo] The Whale's Back takes the right-faceing to Left-facing corner system central to this pictute to a fixed anchor up top. Photo by T. Bubb, 2/2006.
Pat cruising perfect hands.
[Hide Photo] Pat cruising perfect hands.
Starting up the climb
[Hide Photo] Starting up the climb
shouldn't it be whale's tail?
[Hide Photo] shouldn't it be whale's tail?
Plug and chug on the upper Whale's Back
[Hide Photo] Plug and chug on the upper Whale's Back

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11-
[Hide Comment] While the guide suggests that large hands would benefit the ascensionist, I did not find it so, and neither did my 5'5" female partner who has very small hands. Don't let that scare you off of the route. Feb 27, 2006
[Hide Comment] Climbers with large hands will find the top part of this climb more difficult. I thought it was 5.10c. My partners with smaller hands said 5.10a or b. Mar 1, 2006
Jeff G
Colorado
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] The upper part of this route is a beauty! Sustained #3 friends, which is perfect hands for me, so I found it a little easier than the 11- rating. Nov 13, 2006
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] What a stellar route! This wall doesn't get much traffic. The approach and the base of the wall kinda suck for walking (loose and no real trails) but the routes are good.

Right facing wide hands corner changes to left facing thin hands. Becomes perfect hands for a long way. Must do route!! Mar 31, 2008
[Hide Comment] A 70m doesn't reach, we tried. The route is probably 130' tall.

We replaced the anchor in Sept. '07. One of the original bolts pulled out with not much effort (even still had the price tag on the bolt!), but the other huge weird bolt with homemade aluminum hanger is still there since I didn't have the right gear to try removing it and it's cool to see some original homemade funky stuff now and then (particularly when you don't have to rap from it!).

Be careful about placing cam(s) near the top of the first section, since it's easy for the rope to drag them into the crack when you get on the rest ledge. Apr 22, 2009
S Saunders
Oakdale, CA
[Hide Comment] Really fun, long route and great confidence booster for the grade (to be honest though, I'd call it a 10c or d with my hands). Jun 2, 2009
alf
  5.10a/b PG13
[Hide Comment] dear Barnes,

thanks for replacing the bolts.

I think that it is OK to place the bolts in a new spot if you think that you can reduce the rope wear on the rock.

In this case, an anchor further right would have made the route easier to clean, and created far less rope drag. Aug 3, 2009
[Hide Comment] my 70 did reach. (actually about 3 ft short on each end). amazing route! Dec 3, 2009
MTKirk
Billings, MT
[Hide Comment] My 70m didn't reach, not even close. I think the best strategy is to bring up the second from the anchors. You can then lower(or rap one strand) the second down to the ground. To clean the anchor you can rap with a 70m to a ledge to climbers left, pull the rope from this ledge, then do a 5.4? down climb 20'+/- climbers left of route.

I had six #2 camalots and wished I had eight, I had to set one of them backwards in the crack at the top of the bulge to keep rope drag/piece pushing to a minimum. Other than the rope management issues, this line is incredible. The rock is of the highest quality and there is a variety of different moves, easily one of the best 10's at the creek. Apr 2, 2013
Geoff Georges
Seattle, WA
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] one of my favorite 5.10's. I love the way the rock fractures out those scoops and dish patterns.
I had 6/ #3, 6/ #2, 2/ #4 and several smaller Camalots. I down climbed the last part on lead after pulling the rap rope to the ledge. Book has no mention other than it being 130' to anchor. Jan 12, 2014
Joe Stern
Moab, Utah
[Hide Comment] Rack: (6-8) #2, (6-7) #3. That's it. Just 2s and 3s.

Route is about 130' tall. Nov 29, 2017
Japhy Dhungana
Boulder, CO
  5.10
[Hide Comment] 80m rope is perfect with some extra rope left. Depending on your comfort level, choose the number of 2's and 3's. Oct 30, 2019