Avg: 3.1 from 311 votes
|Type:||Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 5 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Tom Nephew, Ron Burgner|
|Page Views:||25,228 total · 134/month|
|Shared By:||Addict on Feb 2, 2006 · Updates|
|Admins:||Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters|
This is a high-quality climb up Index's Great Northern Slab area, with a wide variety of climbing styles, perfect protection, and gorgeous Index granite. Though it is commonly done in 5 pitches, all of the pitches are very short (some less than 30 feet). The original rating on this route was 5.8, but is now an Index 8+. In Leavenworth, this route would easily be rated 5.9+ or 5.10A.
To approach, just cross the tracks, go slightly uphill, and trend diagonally right to the closest wall. Look for the obvious fist-crack and start here.
Pitch #1 - 5.8 - Jam up the hand-crack which turns into tough flared fists at the crux. Belay on the ledge. 25 feet
Move your belay over to the base of the finger-crack on the climber's right.
Pitch #2 - 5.8 - Jam or lieback up the thin fingers to tips crack in the left facing corner. Scramble up to the base of the squeeze and belay at the fixed bong. 70 feet
Pitch #3 - 5.8+ - Wrestle and grunt your way up the vertical featureless superslick flared squeeze chimney. This pitch is often wet. Remember to remind yourself that it's only "5.8". Belay on the ledge above. 40 feet
Pitch #4 - 5.8 - Climb the crack up to the roof, then hand traverse to the left with beautiful exposure. Turn the corner then jam the hand and fingercrack to the big anchor. 70 feet
Pitch #5 - 5.7 - There are 2 options for this pitch. Consider the left one, which is much better. Scramble up to the tree, then angle up and to the left towards the arete. Look for 2 bolts above you. Fun balancy slab moves bring you to the anchor at the top of the wall. 90 feet
Descent: Rap the Great Northern Slab route. Only 1 rope needed.