Type: Trad, 250 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Tom Nephew, Ron Burgner
Page Views: 20,519 total · 127/month
Shared By: Addict on Feb 2, 2006 with improvements by skye h
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure: Upper Cheeks Details

Description

This is a high-quality climb up Index's Great Northern Slab area, with a wide variety of climbing styles, perfect protection, and gorgeous Index granite. Though it is commonly done in 5 pitches, all of the pitches are very short (some less than 30 feet). The original rating on this route was 5.8, but is now an Index 8+. In Leavenworth, this route would easily be rated 5.9+ or 5.10A.

To approach, just cross the tracks, go slightly uphill, and trend diagonally right to the closest wall. Look for the obvious fist-crack and start here.

Pitch #1 - 5.8 - Jamb up the hand-crack which turns into tough flared fists at the crux. Belay on the ledge. 25 feet

Move your belay over to the base of the finger-crack on the climber's right.

Pitch #2 - 5.8 - Jamb or lieback up the thin fingers to tips crack in the left facing corner. Scramble up to the base of the squeeze and belay at the fixed bong. 70 feet

Pitch #3 - 5.8+ - Wrestle and grunt your way up the vertical featureless superslick flared squeeze chimney. This pitch is often wet. Remember to remind yourself that it's only "5.8". Belay on the ledge above. 40 feet

Pitch #4 - 5.8 - Climb the crack up to the roof, then hand traverse to the left with beautiful exposure. Turn the corner then jamb the hand and fingercrack to the big anchor. 70 feet

Pitch #5 - 5.7 - There are 2 options for this pitch. Consider the left one, which is much better. Scramble up to the tree, then angle up and to the left towards the arete. Look for 2 bolts above you. Fun balancy slab moves bring you to the anchor at the top of the wall. 90 feet

Descent: Rap the Great Northern Slab route. Only 1 rope needed.

Protection

1 each cams smallest Alien to a 3 Camalot
Extras in thin hands to hands are nice for pitch #4
1 each small nuts
60 meter rope

Photos