Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,518 total · 34/month
Shared By: jonah on Feb 9, 2006
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


100 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure: Upper Cheeks Details

Description

The obvious handcrack going straight up to the right of the huge eyebolt. Approach as for GNS, Pisces, etc. Goes from tight hands to perfect hands to fists all in the course of 20 feet, then finishes up the beautiful easy crack above. Many people think this is tough for the grade - I've known people who onsight 11 crack to get spanked on this short pitch. Maybe handsize dependent?

Protection

One set of camalots

Photos

Jesse James
Knoxville, TN
 
Jesse James   Knoxville, TN
 
If you have big hands, getting established in the tight hands section will probably seem hard, luckily it widens up quickly. Mar 21, 2006
Tom Bath
Kent, Wa
 
Tom Bath   Kent, Wa
 
Definitely a sandbag. It helps to be tall. Stemming as high as possible at the start will allow you to get your hands past some of the tight jams. Dec 5, 2009
Laurel Fan  
5.9
Apparently it helps to be short also. Oct 20, 2014
Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
Jon Nelson   Redmond, WA  
But if you are really short with humongous hands, forget it. Oct 21, 2014
Haha, I was glad to see others felt the same way about this climb. Getting into it last week seemed pretty hard. Apparently there used to be a block down low? Jon, your comment really made me laugh Jun 19, 2015
Eric K
Leavenworth, WA
  5.10a
Eric K   Leavenworth, WA
  5.10a
I finally got on this again last week and kicked the monkey off my back. 6 years ago on my first trip to Index I could not even TR this thing and had to pull on gear through the whole crux section. I have not tried since until a few days ago, nice to finally lead it clean. Great route, will be doing regularly now! Aug 2, 2016