Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,528 total · 8/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on Mar 29, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


16 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Located on the far left side of the bank in a less visited small amphitheatre of rock, Neapolitan Headrush climbs the furthest left bolted route. The crux comes right off the deck, so expect some tricky belaying with belayer and climber becoming intimate, better yet stick clip the second bolt. After working out the pockets and crimps of the lower crux, cruise up to the shelf for a comfortable rest (or nap if it's sunny and warm). Clip the bolt and crank out of the roof. Like the lower sequence, the roof here takes some vision to work out. Unlike the multiple choice questions on other Shelf climbs where deciding which chalked hold is the best, on NH deciding which unchalked hold that you may or may not see right now is best? The route is a little short by shelf standards and the two cruxes are separated by a easy to achieve no hands rest, yet the route has very interesting moves on quality rock. Deserves more ascents than at appears to receive.

Protection

6 bolts to 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

This was my first "real" 12 sport. I had done some random 12 off of Deer Creek Road on top [rope] about a thousand times before. [This] one I did about four months ago after a short career as a sport climber and a fairly long career as a boulderer. Let me say that with my vast bouldering experiences this climb was great. The start is the crux and if you fall, there is kind of an intimidating drop off ledge. I would [recommend] a stick clip. Or just look at the problem in absolute detail [before] you start. Sep 21, 2005
C Miller
CA
  5.12a
C Miller   CA  
  5.12a
Did this not long after the FA (1988) and thought it soft for the 5.12b rating it sported - .12a seems more accurate. Good pockets down low to hard to read moves up high. Jan 25, 2006
Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
 
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
 
Probably .12b if you are shorter.... Dec 23, 2008
ZachS00
Denver, CO
ZachS00   Denver, CO
Has anyone done the 12d to the right? Walking on the moon? It's not in MP's database. Jan 21, 2015
Yeah, Zach, Walking on the Moon is my route. It's ape index dependent for the grade. If you have long arms... not too hard. Less than 5'9" and it goes at about .13a. Jan 27, 2015
ZachS00
Denver, CO
ZachS00   Denver, CO
Thanks, Darryl. I look forward to trying it. Feb 1, 2015