Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,085 total · 5/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

To find this route, hike west from the back to the [Future Area] for several hundred yards. As you are hiking along the trail, keep an eye out for the [Mushroom Dome] formation that is the lower part of the route. You will definitely know it when you see it because it is very unique. It is route number 2 on [William Prehm's Neopolitan Headrush] area photo.

Begin face climbing up the [Mushroom Dome] on good pockets, past 2 bolts and a slightly difficult move or two. The route then traverses a bit left to a small steep corner. Crank like a banshee through this section and 3 bolts into a weird off balance blocky section. The next bolt is way up to the left under the roof. This section of climbing isn't mega tough, but it isn't easy and you will probably be carrying a substantial pump. I would possibly give this section an 'R' rating, because if you come off you will probably eat the big ledge below you. Make sure your belayer is ready to head for [Canon City] (meaning running belay to the south) if you do come off. Once you get the bolt under the roof clipped you can shake your pump out and deal with the stout boulder problem finish. Crank pretty freakin' hard over the roof and keep looking up and to the left. The anchors are difficult to see, but sometimes they have webbing on them. Either bring some webbing and a ring to rap with, or you can hike to the west about a 100 yards and down a [gully] to the trail.

Protection

7 bolts to hard to find 3 bolt anchor.

Photos

Brandon Schirm
colorado springs, co
Brandon Schirm   colorado springs, co
The runout can be protected by some small gear behind a block use a long sling to reduce rope drag. I didn't see the anchors, so we used the last two bolts to rap, and the bolt below the roof is coming out a bit so finger tighten or bring a wrench if you think about it. Jan 13, 2009
GregParker
Denver, CO
5.11b PG13
GregParker   Denver, CO
5.11b PG13
In my opinion, this route is currently unsafe. The bolt under the roof is rusty, the hanger spins, the hanger has bent from being weighted over a bulge in the rock, and it may be possible to become backclipped after it has spun. What makes it worse is that you have just climbed a 20 foot runout (easy) but are about to make a blind crux reach over the bulge relying on that single bolt for protection. The anchors are also weird.

Stay away until is has been retro-bolted. Mar 13, 2016