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Routes in 03. Machine Gun Kelly
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1979 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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[Redacted] S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Black Hole Sun S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Cerebral Brain Freeze S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Clyde Barrow S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Goodfellas S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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I Have a Dream S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Let Me Out S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Machine Gun Kelly S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Neopolitan Headrush S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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On the Mushroom S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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On the Ritz S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Razor Burn (aka Stewart's Slab) S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Scarface S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Stair Master S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Substitute S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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They Only Come Out At Night S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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When I'm 64 S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Will Purr For Treats S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Tina and Dan Godshall |
| Page Views: | 2,797 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Dan 60D5H411 on Apr 26, 2010 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
Stemming is the name of the game on this route. Scramble up easy rock to a high first bolt while keeping your eyes peeled for a bulge at the third bolt. Stem or crank your way through this to gain easier ground. Above you will be a system of three cracks where optional jams and mandatory stemming will deposit you at the anchors.
Location
Find the alcove that is home to Will Purr For Treats and 4 other climbs. From here walk right for about 20 yards (around an obvious bulge) aiming for a recess in the wall. A high first bolt in tan rock is the first of eight bolts that lead you to the anchors in the black cap rock.
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