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Routes in Independence Monument
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Geezer Highway T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Independence Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1 |
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Otto's Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Slavery T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A3- |
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South Face Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3+ |
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Sundial Dihedral T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c C1 |
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Unknown handcrack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 400 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | John Otto, July 4, 1911 |
| Page Views: | 78,995 total · 353/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000 |
| Admins: | Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Your Star Rating:
Description
This is a nice climb in four short pitches that finishes with the last exposed and dramatic prow to the summit. It's on the shady side of the monument, so warm days are preferable. The FA, Otto, drilled and chopped many holds in the soft sandstone to aid up this route with pipes in the holes, but now just the holes remain, which gives the route a moderate rating.
P1: Start on the NW side near the East end at a right-angling ramp (5.4) past chopped steps to a large ledge with a crack to protect for a belay.
P2: Head up the wide crack (#4 Camalot at the top) and exit the slot to another large ledge. The 2" drilled holes can be protected with the tricams.
P3: 3rd class through the Time Tunnel up the ramp below a face with some drilled angles. Climb this short pitch to Lunchbox Ledge, a large belay spot with a terrific view. Three drilled angles at the belay.
P4: The awesome crux pitch. Take the chopped steps to the right up the easy, but runout and exposed face. Some drilled angles protect the final overhang on good holds to the belay ledge. A short hop up off this ledge gains the summit.
To descend, make a double rope rap past Lunchbox Ledge to the large shelf with the Time Tunnel. Traverse down the small tunnel to a short rap to a large ledge (top of 2nd pitch). Look for the last double rope rap to the right at the edge of the ledge, which was the top of the first pitch.
P1: Start on the NW side near the East end at a right-angling ramp (5.4) past chopped steps to a large ledge with a crack to protect for a belay.
P2: Head up the wide crack (#4 Camalot at the top) and exit the slot to another large ledge. The 2" drilled holes can be protected with the tricams.
P3: 3rd class through the Time Tunnel up the ramp below a face with some drilled angles. Climb this short pitch to Lunchbox Ledge, a large belay spot with a terrific view. Three drilled angles at the belay.
P4: The awesome crux pitch. Take the chopped steps to the right up the easy, but runout and exposed face. Some drilled angles protect the final overhang on good holds to the belay ledge. A short hop up off this ledge gains the summit.
To descend, make a double rope rap past Lunchbox Ledge to the large shelf with the Time Tunnel. Traverse down the small tunnel to a short rap to a large ledge (top of 2nd pitch). Look for the last double rope rap to the right at the edge of the ledge, which was the top of the first pitch.
Salt Lake City, UT
Great unique route, definitely 8+ or maybe even 9- Nov 19, 2001
Omaha, NE
What a surreal route. A must do if in the area.
The third pitch Off-Width is definitely size-dependent: Tall / slender people will fare better than chubbier / shorter ones. It is burly for sure, but protects very well with large cams and a sling around a chockstone.
The last pitch felt insecure. The chopped holds have turned into gritty sloppers. The reaches ae loooong and the pins looked just O.K. Felt like 5.9 to us.
Otto was a wild man, he climbed this in Cowboy boots!
Ironic that he was responsible for both chopping a 5 pitch route up the most beautiful formation in the Monument and leading the charge to turn the area into a National Monument thus ensuring its preservation.
Perhaps the same thing will one day happen with the Sports Park, NOT!
WT Apr 14, 2003
Salt Lake City, UT
BC
Fort Collins, CO
Also, it appears that the pins on the last pitch have been recently replaced, but I don't know how recent. They were all shiny and new looking.
In my opinion, the position on the last pitch is great, but the climging is uninteresting due to the drilled pockets. However, without the pockets the climbing would be much harder on the last pitch as well as the second pitch. Jan 9, 2006
Cheyenne, WY
I'll do it if nobody else will. Thanks Mar 27, 2007
Grand Junction, Co
Sandy mess, Jesse? It's desert rock, so of course there is sand, but it's got to be one of the cleaner routes in the desert and the climbing throughout is actually quite enjoyable. With the abundant protection and easy climbing, it's perfect for speed climbing. You speed climb to learn specific techniques for moving fast. You learn to be efficient as a team. You learn what is possible which gives you confidence to tackle a more ambitious project. For those who venture onto the larger faces, speed often equals safety and just like everything it must be practiced. Otto's is great practice. There are plenty of big routes around the world that require fast efficient climbing on nothing harder than 5.9. Nov 26, 2007
Denver, CO
Some comments:
We climbed over Labor Day weekend, topping out at 10:30AM. Everything below the last pitch was in the shade the entire time.
A light rack is all you need: singles of BD 0.5 - 4 cams, nothing smaller. Single (or less) set of small/med nuts. 2-3 tricams (black or smaller). Lots of shoulder-length slings.
First pitch seemed harder than I was led to believe, but the hardest moves are no harder than 5.6. Tie in long to the first anchor (chains + piton), and keep going around the corner to a comfy belay stance.
A BD 3 is useful for backing up the chockstone (it's fine, the webbing around it isn't) at the bottom of the p2 OW, a 4 is good higher up. As described in the Supertopo topo, it's possible to stem around the opening of the OW. The climbing is a little more delicate (5.8?), but the significant reduction in the grovel factor is well worth it.
Leave the big gear behind on the ledge at the top of the Time Tunnel. The last two pitches can be done with tricams (I had black, pink, red), a handful of nuts and/or small cams (BD 0.5, 0.75), and a few shoulder-length draws for the fixed gear. (The crux pitch would've been a lot easier without a full set of cams hanging off my shoulder.)
The crux pitch was considerably easier than it looks from the belay. The steps are worn but secure, and there are a couple of tricam placements in the handmade pockets if you desire. The last few moves are well-protected (3x pitons) and juggy. 5.8, but it seemed a little harder after all of the easy climbing leading up to it. Your second will appreciate the use of a long draw on the highest piton.
Following ET's comment, two raps with 2 x 60m ropes leaves 5 feet to spare on the second rap. Watch the loose rock coming down with the rope. Sep 1, 2008
If you keep out of the OW and stem the holes, the crux is definitely the last moves on the final pitch (Tobin led this). #4 Camalot in the OW is all you need, you can also clip the ratty sling on the chockstone if you want.
I think I placed about 6 pieces of gear on my leads today (#0.75, 2, 3 and 4 Camalots, a green C3 and #4 Stopper), a few long runners and that is about it.
2 60m raps gets your down. Top to the fixed anchor at the bottom of Time Tunnel, then down looker's left to the ground, about 3 feet to spare. You end up 30 yards south of where you started the route.
We did the approach hike in 45 minutes, beautiful hike by the way. Oct 3, 2008
San Rafael, CA
Kearney, NE
Great route: Otto had gorilla balls! May 11, 2009
Last moves on the last pitch were pumpy and the footholds were slick and sandy. The summit is absolutely incredible! Apr 7, 2011
BOULDER CO
Boulder, CO
PG, Utah
Salt Lake City, UT
Happy 100 years Otto! Oct 23, 2011
sunshine
Moab
Very sandy last pitch! Jan 3, 2012
grand junction, co
Rap from summit anchors to Lunchbox Ledge. 3rd class down time tunnel, rap to first pitch anchors. Then rap straight back down to ground. You can make it down with the single 70m. Tie knots to be sure your rope makes it. Mar 18, 2012
Grand Junction, CO
frisco
Clarksville, TN
La Crescenta, CA
Crestone Colorado
Grand Junction, Colorado
Grand Junction, CO
However, the big vertical "handlebar hold" between the first and second pitons on the last pitch has broken off. There is now a flat, platform-ish hold which is incut in the back. Please be very careful and do NOT pull OUT on it as it is part of a block that is not firmly attached to the wall - you can see a crack in it. It does make a better foothold than was there before!
Such a fun route!
Kris Hjelle Jul 30, 2014
The Road
We got lucky with how our ropes were situated and didn't have to jug back up at all, hopefully other people don't make this mistake! Jul 18, 2016
carbondale, colorado
Golden, CO
Thanks so much to whomever placed them since last summer. The old P2 belay bolts could be pulled out by hand and the manky pitons protecting the roof were unnerving. The new hardware is pretty great!
Btw, the offwidth slot on pitch 2 is definitely the crux. A #5 Camalot lets you protect the move at your waist, though. I had to do a totally horizontal kneebar to reach the next pocket/jug!
Oh, and you can also safely rap the whole route with one 70m rope. The last rappel is 35m on the nose, so be sure to tie knots and find your middle mark before you rap! Apr 13, 2017
Glenwood Springs, CO
Moab, UT
Fort Collins, CO