5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 3.4 from 482 votes
|Type:||Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 5 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||John Otto, July 4, 1911|
|Page Views:||101,762 total · 376/month|
|Shared By:||Ben Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates|
|Admins:||Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
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This is a nice climb in four short pitches that finishes with the last exposed and dramatic prow to the summit. It's on the shady side of the monument, so warm days are preferable. The FA, Otto, drilled and chopped many holds in the soft sandstone to aid up this route with pipes in the holes, but now just the holes remain, which gives the route a moderate rating.
P1. Start on the NW side near the East end at a right-angling ramp (5.4) past chopped steps to a large ledge with a crack to protect for a belay.
P2. Head up the wide crack (#4 Camalot at the top), and exit the slot to another large ledge. The 2" drilled holes can be protected with the tricams.
P3. 3rd Class through the Time Tunnel up the ramp below a face with some drilled anchors. Climb this short pitch to Lunchbox Ledge, a large belay spot with a terrific view. There are three drilled anchors at the belay.
P4. This is the awesome crux pitch. Take the chopped steps to the right up the easy but runout and exposed face. Some drilled angles protect the final overhang on good holds to the belay ledge. A short hop up off this ledge gains the summit.
To descend, make a double rope rap past Lunchbox Ledge to the large shelf with the Time Tunnel. Traverse down the small tunnel to a short rap to a large ledge (top of 2nd pitch). Look for the last double rope rap to the right at the edge of the ledge, which was the top of the first pitch.
A small rack of cams with a 1.5 and 2 tricam, and a #4 Camalot. About 6 draws and several shoulder length slings should do. Bring two ropes (for the rap).
Per Bryce Kerscher: a #5 Camalot is optional.