South Face Direct
Avg: 2.5 from 4 votes
Routes in Independence Monument
|Geezer Highway T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13|
|Independence Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1|
|Otto's Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Slavery T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A3-|
|South Face Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3+|
|Sundial Dihedral T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c C1|
|Unknown handcrack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Type:||Trad, Aid, 400 ft, 5 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||Mike Dudley, Art Howells, Don Doucette - May 1971|
|Page Views:||2,277 total, 16/month|
|Shared By:||Airbiscuit on Mar 29, 2006|
|Admins:||Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
6/25-6/26/16 Otto's Route, vicinity, and rap will be closed! Details
Otto's Route and any line requiring a rap down Otto's Route on Independence Monument will be closed this Saturday the 25th and Sunday the 26th for route maintenance
DescriptionThis is the aid climb directly in the middle of the South Face of Independence Monument. Locate the start right of the Independence Chimney at two boulders that appear to have blue horizontal stripes on them. Maybe the original Independence test piece (done in 1971). It was still way spicy when we did it back in 2000. I have heard that it has gone clean since then, once by a soloist a few years before we got on her. And again by another solo fellow around 2003 - 2004. For obvious reasons this climb has seen a limited number of ascents, probably less than twenty. I have personally seen a French dude take a "HUGE" whipper from high on the mud band pitch. He escaped unscathed and it appeared, went on to finish the route. I whipped on pitch three trying to free the slabby pockets that link the corners. Things up here are generally pretty poor as far as the stone goes. Another observation is that the piton scars get a lot smaller as you get higher (lots of suitors for the first few pitches but not so many near to the top).
We nailed only near the ground on pitch one (one toucan as I recall) and throughout the crux on pitch four which involved a fair amount of nailing including a few pieces of ice gear, pounded directly into the mud filled cracks. Pretty sporty in general, the last pitch throws a few swings at you too.
It should be of note that the Monument has adopted a current policy of banning the use of pitons in the park.