Avg: 1.3 from 6 votes
|Type:||Trad, 400 ft, 6 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Mike Dudley and Dennis Willis, late 1980s|
|Page Views:||2,163 total · 20/month|
|Shared By:||Rich F. on Oct 12, 2010|
|Admins:||Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
This route climbs a long crack system 80 feet right of Otto's Route on the northwest side of the monument. While there probably are not any moves individually harder than 5.9+, it is more vertical, sustained and difficult than Ottos Route. This route was harder than what I normally lead (I took a few falls), but serious climbers that enjoy sustained, vertical, trad routes may find it more enjoyable than Otto's.
Pitch 1: Climb a right-facing crack to a small belay ledge with two pitons and slings (visible in the photo). In places this crack is fairly wide I used a #4 cam to protect a few moves. (80 feet, 5.8)
Pitch 2: Follow the crack past two pitons on the right side about 40 feet up, where the crack/dihedral is too thin to protect. Continue up to a sloping belay ledge with one piton and some slings with a couple of stoppers attached. (60 feet, 5.9)
Pitch 3: Climb straight up the crack which varies in width and is a little sandy. The crux for me was about 30 feet up where the crack bulges out to the right. I passed it with a layback, but it's very exposed and challenging to place good gear in the crack. Be careful placing cams here -- I had two blow out on me when I fell. (However, I got a #4 Camalot in just below the crux, and it held me on a couple of falls.) I climbed this pitch to a ledge below the OW/chimney. Not a very comfortable belay ledge, but I was nearly out of gear for setting an anchor. I used a #5 cam for an anchor belay sitting below the offwidth. (60 feet, 5.9+)
Pitch 4: Climb straight up an awkward offwidth/chimney. It starts nearly vertical, then gradually the slope eases back. Not many options for gear, unless you bring something like a #5 Camalot. But once you're up about 15 feet, the slope is such that a long fall is unlikely since you're inside the squeeze chimney. The chimney tops out just below the huge ledge on the right side of Otto's time tunnel. (5.8, 50 feet)
Pitches 5 & 6: Scramble to the time tunnel ledge and follow the last two pitches of Otto's Route to the summit.
Note: strong climbers with a 60m rope could probably combine pitches 1 & 2, and pitches 3 & 4. I kept the pitches short to preserve gear for protection and belay anchors.
Descent: You could rappel down from the first set of slings on the two pitons. From the second set of slings, one could rappel from the slings, but the single piton anchor and stoppers looked a little dicier -- definitely want to make sure those stoppers are set well. Above that, youre fairly committed to the top to join Otto's Route.
While there are many, many options for placing gear in the crack, I rated the route PG-13 simply because in places the crack is a little flaring and the sandstone is soft. I had two cams at the crux bust out on a fall -- but the #4 held! Just be careful setting your protection and back it up.