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Routes in Independence Monument

Geezer Highway T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Independence Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1
Otto's Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slavery T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A3-
South Face Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3+
Sundial Dihedral T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c C1
Unknown handcrack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,766 total, 10/month
Shared By: Tony B on May 5, 2003
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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6/25-6/26/16 Otto's Route, vicinity, and rap will be closed! Details

Description

Walk to the North Face of Independence Monument, then look toward its left side (East) some distance from the base of Otto's Route. There is a 40 to 50 foot handcrack there with some webbing at the top, from which you can retreat (or, at least I put some there in 1997). This route ascends to a ledge on the "shoulder" of the main rock. This is just left of the first pitch of Slavery, or perhaps (slim chance) is the first pitch of Slavery. It is visible as a faint line on the lower left of the rock in the attached photo.

I know nothing of the history or proposed grade of this route, but scribbled down its location. I remember thinking the grade to be perhaps 5.10b, but I was not and am not presently familiar with the local grades- this is an "Indian Creek" rating, as it were.

If you have information on this system, please add some.

Protection

A set of cams with perhaps a double around hand size.

Photos

Micahisaac
Longmont, CO
 
Micahisaac   Longmont, CO
 
I would say that Tony's grade of 10b is about right as an Indian Creek rating. The anchor has one good drilled pin and one manky pin placed in a breaking horizontal crack. I recommend you back it up.
Also tried to top rope the crack that starts about 10' right of this route. It is full of choss and is completely loose and detached at the roof section. I suggest you steer clear of this route. May 13, 2009