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Routes in Cob Rock

Aid Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Brownies In The Basin T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Corn on the Cob T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crystal Arete V3 6A
Devil's Dream T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
East Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eat Left T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Eat Right T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Empor T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Empor Scary Variant T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Face Problem V3 6A
Face Route T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Game, The V16 8C+
Goat, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Headless Horseman, The V10 7C+ R
Hug, The V10-11 8A PG13
Hurley Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Huston Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Indistinction T,S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Left Huge aka The Hug Left V8-9 7B+
Mantle Arete V3+ 6A+
Ms. Fanny Le Pump T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Night Vision T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
North Face Center T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
North Face Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Northwest Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Othello T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Right Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sleepy Hollow V9-10 7C+ R
South Crack (Unknown) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Thunder Road S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Under The Boardwalk V12 8A+
West Cracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
West Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Rib T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Cary Huston, 1955
Page Views: 10,416 total, 51/month
Shared By: Matt Bauman on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Huston Crack begins on the bottom left side of Cob Rock in the middle of the buttress to the left of the North Face Center start. It is an obvious wide crack that goes straight up for 50 feet.

It starts out with a few hand jams, quickly goes to fists for about 10 feet and then goes to a wide (arm-bar) crack for the remaining 35 feet (crux). The end of the crack starts to narrow to fist and hands again and then ends on a ledge....continue up steep but easy face to top of block with good cracks to set up belay/toprope.

From here you can set up a TR for the 10d finger crack (hard) just right of Huston Crack (it's called Old Aid Crack) and 11a face climb to the right of Old Aid Crack.

Protection

Mid to large cams. The crux needs at least 1 #4 Camalot or equivalent. A second big cam (4-4.5) might make you feel better.
My uncle Cary Huston put this up in 1955, as a 22 year old kid-fresh out of the army's 10th Mtn. Division training school. He was among a handful of Boulder climbers pioneering the sport in those years, the likes of Kor, Carter, Northcutt, Hornbein, etc.... Cary explained to me over the years - "When we climbed back then, we had a hemp rope, lug soled boots, a single piece of sling wrapped around your waist for a harness, and the we didn't think about the need for intermediate protection." Amazing. This was essentially a free solo in the day and one of the hardest climbs ever put up at the time. Cary is not long for this world at age 83, but cheers to you UNC! You helped start it all.

Cary Huston Hayes
1-6-17 Jan 6, 2017
rien WaNderlust
Nederland
rien WaNderlust   Nederland
After a good chunk of the day running trad laps on Cob, I was ready for a wind down and figured this shorty would be my ticket. Started off just fine...got into the offwidth section, set my #4, made about two moves above it and started getting worked! Couldn't seem to get good feet...through in another #4, attempted next move and peeled. Stout f#cker! Managed to walk the #4 the remainder of the way and struggle ferociously to the topout. Definitely not a wind down kind of 5.8/9. Needless to say, agree with everyone's comments.... Fun. Indeed full on offwidth flare. Will make you sweat & maybe resort to foul language as well. Found the 5.10d to the right easier to my liking and the 11a to the right of that is a super fun micro-edgefest! Hard & reachy. May 31, 2015
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.9
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.9
It's not really worth the effort of tape in my opinion. There are good hand jams low and good knees in higher, and I mostly gastoned the outside edge while sliding my legs up. I'd say pants over shorts though. Jul 6, 2013
Justin Brunson
Broomfield CO
  5.9
Justin Brunson   Broomfield CO
  5.9
Do you guys tape up for this one? Jun 10, 2013
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.9
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.9
I wish there were more cracks like this in Bocan. I didn't think the OW difficulties were all too bad... felt pretty secure with only one #4 Camalot. I guess another and maybe a #5 would be nice, but if you're solid in the OW, it'll be fine with a single #4. The crux is a surprising few moves near the top of the crack at the exit.... Oct 12, 2012
Baumer
Boulder, CO
 
Baumer   Boulder, CO
 
I brought a #6 because, well, I own one and I've only placed it once before. Found a great spot for it up high...but you can sew it up just fine without. Two #4's and a #5 will get you through the crux. Jul 24, 2012
NickinCO
colorado
  5.9
NickinCO   colorado
  5.9
My first off-width done today with 1 #4. Definitely wanted another one!!! I walked it up as far as I could which made the climbing a little harder, left it as high as I could and was still looking at a good 25'er. To do this climb safely, bring two #4s and even a #5 if you want to sew it up. Aug 29, 2011
SeanKuus Kuusinen
Steamboat Springs
  5.9
SeanKuus Kuusinen   Steamboat Springs
  5.9
The new guidebook for Boulder Canyon (Wolverine Publishing) gives this a 5.9 rating, which I generally agree with. For comparison, use the OW on pitch three of Central Pillar of Frenzy in Yosemite. It's signicantly easier (same size, but lower angle) and rated 5.8. (This is relevant if you consider Yosemite's routes and their ratings a benchmark). Aug 28, 2010
Mikelsons Mikelsons
Boulder, CO
Mikelsons Mikelsons   Boulder, CO
I found the knee jams on this one to allow for some rest breaks. I walked a #4 Camalot up about 20 feet through the middle section of the crack. I found it rather strenuous and around the crux I tested a 3" cam by weighting it from a few feet above. Lieback the crux. After resting a moment, I tried this and cruised to the belay. This climb made a fun step up from 5.7 for me. Hard, but not unreadable, and in the solution there is great satisfaction. Aug 3, 2009
Shawn Mitchell
Broomfield
Shawn Mitchell   Broomfield
Sewn up? I'll tell you about sewn up! Take two #4 Camalots, and a #5! You could practically aid it. And if you accidentally kick the 5 on the way past, so it's tipped out and worthless, you'll still only be 6' or so above the top #4! Groveling in style! Jun 15, 2009
YDPL8S
Santa Monica, Ca.
  5.8+
YDPL8S   Santa Monica, Ca.
  5.8+
First time I did it I got a big old Chouinard hex (8 or 9) stuck in there, had to rap to get it out. Gave me a big cramp in my foot. Jul 11, 2008
Dave Pilot
Boulder, CO
  5.8+
Dave Pilot   Boulder, CO
  5.8+
This is the quintessential wide crack primer. You can even get a couple of chicken wings in towards the top. Resist the urge to use facial features. I left the #4 Camalot in the car since I was just planning to do Empor. Luckily I had #3.5, #3, and #2 Camalots and a Trango MaxCam about the same size as the #3.5. The #2 worked well in a horizontal crack toward the top of the wide section and protected the weird mantel move getting out of the wide crack. Enjoy! Jul 11, 2008
Buzz Burrell
Boulder
Buzz Burrell   Boulder
This is a classic, in part because of the great crack, but also because of the rating! If this were done today, it would be listed at 5.9. Back then, 5.10 was the hardest there was, so if you could climb it at all they gave it a 5.9, and if you did it first try it was listed at 5.8. Jun 14, 2008
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
I recall back in the early '90s Scott Parazinski, aka the vampire to John Glenn & one of the two astronauts on the recent record setting space walk, jumping onto this route on lead with my meager rack at the time with a #4 Friend as the biggest piece. =[:~o Nov 5, 2007
Dave Fiorucci
Boulder, Colorado
  5.9
Dave Fiorucci   Boulder, Colorado
  5.9
This was also a whim climb for our group after Empor, so after flailing all over this thing I didn't go home thinking I was the king of the mountain. #2 moral is not to try this after Empor. Nov 5, 2007
Mark Cushman
Cumming, GA
  5.8+
Mark Cushman   Cumming, GA
  5.8+
I climbed this last month on a whim after getting done Empor. I didn't have the requisite big cams and I ran it out on lead to groundfall potential at my leading ability (not good). I walked a 3.5 Camalot up with me to about 1/2 way until it was too tipped out to function, then shot for the top. Well, I didn't actually shoot for the top, more like oozed up the crack to the top, sometimes gaining 6 inches then losing 2. At the crux I was fairly pumped, overgripping (oh feck, oh feck) and I ALMOST tried to face climb to the left to an inviting bolt I could fall from. I'm glad I didn't, I probably would have peeled. The moral of the story is to bring big cams. Nov 5, 2007
Dave Fiorucci
Boulder, Colorado
  5.9
Dave Fiorucci   Boulder, Colorado
  5.9
I thought that the crack was heinous, I got spanked tiring to go up this off width beast, my feet didn't fit in the crack, and I ended up jamming knees and arm bars, prying apart the crack up toward the top, then I ran out of big gear and had to lower and TR. But I tell you my arms feel great today, guide book calls it an 8, but I have to disagree, and would bump it to a 9... I really like most cracks (and usually breeze up them) but I guess I have to learn a better technique for these off widths, I really wanted to do a toe-heal, but I wasnÂ’t finding the right place for that, and most of the way my hands just felt too small. I will probably do this again until I get up without much trouble. Nov 5, 2007
Daniel Crescenzo  
  5.8+
Good Clean Fun!!! First your jamming hands, then fists, then sideways fists, then arms and legs. Very nice crack clinic. Aug 13, 2007
Stephanovich
Boulder, CO
Stephanovich   Boulder, CO
Fat cracks are Phat! this one is fun, bring a big cam and just walk it along as you climb, Jammin' man... Jul 10, 2007
Dane Casterson
Boulder
 
Dane Casterson   Boulder
 
Definitely wide. It's possible to to get good fist jams through the wide section if you reach deep enough. May 26, 2007
ET
ET  
Ya, just to echo whats already been said. The crux on this one is high and you need a 4 or 4.5 BD size cam to protect it.

Learned this one the hard way, I grounded out when I slipped at the crux and my tapped out 3.5 pulled. Sep 4, 2003
Be careful on this climb! You need large pro for the top (i.e. BD #4). I saw a guy deck from the top yesterday as his pro zippered, then got hauled out on a litter.. Other than, that VERY cool climb..and the 10d is also way cool.. Aug 18, 2003
This route makes for a great introduction to off-width cracks. It's a bit less than vertical and several hold outside and inside the crack make it a very worthwile TR. Aug 12, 2002
Legs Magillicutty   Durango
Yeah, this is a good route, fun and frustrating. From the ground the rock around the wide part of the crack looks like there might actually be some good holds but the rock was pretty polished. The leg jam was harsh. I got stuck!!! May 28, 2002
I made the mistake of assuming the crux was in the thin crack section near the bottom and foolishly decided to tackle the wide section with no pro. Needless to say things got a bit desperate when I reached the crux and my last piece was 25 feet below me (clearly in decking territory)

The crux comes about 40 feet off the ground where the wide crack narrows enough to force your leg out of the offwidth jam. As stated by Ben, to pro this correctly, 2 number 4 Camalots would be needed (unless you care to walk one of them up with you).

All this being said, this is a fun route, sustained and technical. Sep 17, 2001
A #4 Camalot or equivalent is almost mandatory unless you run it out through the offwidth section. If you have two, you could really sew it up. Jan 1, 2001