Type: Trad
FA: Bruce Morris and Dave Rosenthal, 1977
Page Views: 2,530 total · 16/month
Shared By: Ken Duncan on Apr 5, 2006 with updates from YURA Porotnikov
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

The route climbs a very thin flake/crack with difficult entry moves. It is strenuous to protect taking Lowe Balls, RPs and small camming units. Once you turn the bulge the upper slab/crack eases significantly. There are fixed anchors. The excellent initial moves are probably 11c once you figure them out but are a very hard flash for that grade.

Location

Ms Fannie le Pump is located about 40 feet up and left of the Huston and Aid Crack buttress. It is the left of three cracks and is located in a steep, left-facing dihedral.

Protection

Lowe Balls, RPs and small camming units.

Photos

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I recall a tight, steep dihedral with a thin finger crack. My notes say "solid 5.11c, RPs for gear". There is a 5.8 crack to the right, and an easier (5.6) crack right of that; both of these cracks lead into the rock scar. Sep 10, 2002
Ken Heiser
Boulder, CO
Ken Heiser   Boulder, CO
The 11c crux moves are the first 5 or 6 moves of the ground in a very weird, awkward and strenuous thin dihedral. Sep 4, 2004
Bruce Morris
Soulsbyville, CA
Bruce Morris   Soulsbyville, CA
Ken Duncan's description sounds like the route that I did back in July 1977. There was a left facing dihedral with a very difficult entrance problem stem. Oct 7, 2004
George K. Watson
Nederland, CO
George K. Watson   Nederland, CO
FA was Bruce Morris, not "Moss". Aug 17, 2010
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
VERY tough warm-up... crux right off of the ground and quite an A$$ kicker at that. Aug 9, 2015
Mitch Friedeman
Boulder, CO
 
Mitch Friedeman   Boulder, CO
 
Hardcore sandbag. Wonder if something broke. Felt like 12b. Aug 31, 2018