Type: Trad, 220 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Kor and someone else
Page Views: 5,436 total · 25/month
Shared By: Matt Bauman on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

88 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details


P1. Starts the same as North Face Center....goes left when steep finger crack goes left on face away from the big dihedral on right....then traverse left on shallow ledge....up tricky and steep finger cracks to blocky belay ledge.

P2. Then continue up steep but easier cracks to top.

Walkoff the back.


Slung horns and cams and stoppers....doubles on smaller cams nice.....


Matt Bauman
Matt Bauman  
Good climb, better than Northface Center and Northwest Corner IMHO.... Jan 1, 2001
You can just make it with a 60m rope. Don't place pro, or use a long sling on the traverse left to eliminate drag to do it in one pitch. Dec 31, 2001
This route has a couple creaky flakes on it. I ran it out across the traverse only to discover that my placements would have to go behind flexing flakes. That old pin after the traverse looks pretty good at that moment! A great route. Jul 23, 2002
Adam Hicks`  
Did this earlier this morning. I don't like it when my holds all feel like they'll fail. Not to spew beta, but I got a bomber #4 Smiley wedge in at the left end of the traverse behind the big flake. It didn't LOOK bomber, but would have held a fall, especially since I just wanted it while I moved up to the pin. In the undercling above the pin I got a really good green alien, and then I slung the super creaky flake. I don't think the slung flake would have held a fall, but it was easy to the ledge after that.

If you like climbing on peeling onions you'll like this climb. The moves are spectacular, and the pro reminds me of Eldo, but everything is hollow and flexing. For an awesome finish go straight up the crack in the middle of the tower without steping around the corner to the right. Jul 18, 2003
Great climb, seconded this Saturday, and was very impressed by the movement and the exposure. May 10, 2004
Eran Viimeinen
Eran Viimeinen   Colorado
You can backup the fixed pin under the crux w/ a #0 TCU. Check out the extremely loose flake down and right of the pin! Wicked! Jun 9, 2006
Cody Munger
Carson City, NV
Cody Munger   Carson City, NV
Don't even THINK about touching that flake or using it for gear. There is a small edge to the left of it you can use as a much smaller hand hold. Jun 12, 2006
Boulder, CO
Stephanovich   Boulder, CO
This one is lots of fun. Good gear fun moves, nice exposure, use some double length runners, be smart with where you place your pieces, and you can stretch it in one 60m pitch. Jul 10, 2007
Did a direct variation straight up without the traverse left. 5.8+. Jun 5, 2011
David Rivers
David Rivers  
Beware of many loose flakes on this climb. These significantly detract from the quality of the climb. Jun 25, 2012
Boulder, CO
  5.8 PG13
boulderkeith   Boulder, CO
  5.8 PG13
Still a lot of loose flakes. Not a good lead probably if this is your top grade.

Gear beta: a small tricam might fit great in the pocket before the traverse (I only had an orange Alien which is a bad squeeze). Jun 27, 2013