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Routes in Cob Rock

Aid Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Brownies In The Basin T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Corn on the Cob T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crystal Arete V3 6A
Devil's Dream T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
East Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eat Left T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Eat Right T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Empor T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Empor Scary Variant T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Face Problem V3 6A
Face Route T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Game, The V16 8C+
Goat, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Headless Horseman, The V10 7C+ R
Hug, The V10-11 8A PG13
Hurley Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Huston Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Indistinction T,S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Left Huge aka The Hug Left V8-9 7B+
Mantle Arete V3+ 6A+
Ms. Fanny Le Pump T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Night Vision T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
North Face Center T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
North Face Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Northwest Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Othello T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Right Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sleepy Hollow V9-10 7C+ R
South Crack (Unknown) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Thunder Road S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Under The Boardwalk V12 8A+
West Cracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
West Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Rib T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Dalke&Ament, 1962 ffa-Dalke 1966
Page Views: 5,514 total, 28/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Jul 11, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

East Crack (also known as East Edge) is a fun thin crack through good rock (and not slick, like a lot of Boulder Canyon!). Nearly all of the crux jams are pin scars, so it didn't have that three star feel...never-the-less the overall rock quality makes it worth doing.

Upon reaching Cob Rock, the lowest feature is a 50 foot high buttress with a prominent wide crack, the Huston Crack. This, or the 5.10 finger crack just right, make good direct starts to East Crack. Otherwise, scramble 4th class up on the right or left side of the buttress, go up past some blocks, and set a belay near the left edge of the north face. The route begins up a shallow LF corner that leads up to the right end of a small roof or overlap. Rossiter and others call the corner runout, but the 5.9 is one move to a good hold, easily scoped and retreated from if necessary, and the RP placement is good. Turn the roof and head left into the crack, which becomes progressively harder (with a couple funky gear placements) until a thank-god fixed pin. Rappel from the ledge with blocks above, or continue up and right to the summit.

Protection

Bring RPs, stoppers, and small camming units--TCUs would probably have working better in the pin scars than my FCUs.
SendaGorilla Bishop   Boulder
Wow! This will be my first route comment. Not to say others I have climbed were less worthy, just that this was a pretty big lead for me.
A big confidence builder, and one hell of a good time! What a sweet line.

I gotta say though, I disagree about the "sketchy" gear. I have one word and I'll say it three times: NUTs, nuts, nuts!
It's all I placed (besides the perfect black Alien) and the cracks ate them up like candy. PERFECT, bomber placements. However, they are a bit "tricky" to place only because of the thin ass stances at which you must place them...you must be quick...decisive and keep moving, but it's all there.

Anyway, loved it. Gonna have to do it again, via Night Vision. May 24, 2013
Jeff McLeod
  5.10b PG13
Jeff McLeod  
  5.10b PG13
I didn't bring enough small gear for this route, so for me the protection was poor. But the corner at the beginning is definitely runout with injury fall potential. Also there is a loose rock at the top of the last pitch (end of the 5.7 crack) that could easily come out and cause trouble. Aug 16, 2012
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.10b
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.10b
I'll second (and third for that matter) the option to climb straight up off the belay (as for Night Vision) up the thin crack and traverse right underneath the roof and get back into East Crack after a few 5.8 moves.

I thought 5.10b was a pretty accurate difficulty rating for this climb considering I have bigger fingers but still really enjoy thin finger cracks. I stayed primarily in the crack and thought the gear was great and everywhere I needed it to be. However, if you're uncomfortable climbing above thin gear, this might not be the route for you. Beautiful climbing and a nice position. Jul 15, 2012
Marty Combs
Boulder, CO
  5.10c PG13
Marty Combs   Boulder, CO
  5.10c PG13
I definitely agree with the above comments concerning sketchy gear. the placements leading up to the crux are mediocre at best. If you were to blow the crux move and zipper, good placements lower will definitely hold. It still makes for a spicy lead. The climbing itself is great. Jun 14, 2012
Shane Zentner
Colorado
Shane Zentner   Colorado
I placed two #3 stoppers, two green Aliens, and one blue Alien throughout the pitch above the roof. The gear is where it needs to be(kind of), although I found placing the gear very challenging and difficult. Indeed, the crack gets progressively harder until the piton (the pin could be 4-6 feet lower in my opinion). The finger crack on the third pitch is worth the effort. Jul 20, 2008
Aeon Aki    
 
As Chad's comment notes, it is easier to climb and protect this route by beginning left of the small dihedral. From there I traversed under the step roof and pulled over on the right getting back in line with East Edge. From there, instead of taking the pin-scarred crack, I climbed more or less straight up using a variety of cracks and edges. Certainly this is the line of least resistance on the left side of Cob Rock but watch what you pull on up there as there are numerous loose flakes that are difficult to avoid and could do a lot of damage if they came off. Jul 20, 2008
Stephanovich
Boulder, CO
Stephanovich   Boulder, CO
Great climb, rack I used: RPs 5+ 4, to 00, a 0.5 (WC) cams, to pitons, a #8 stopper, #1(WC)cam, to a #2BD cam one 60m pitch, fun moves good gear 5.10a. Jul 10, 2007
The bolt that you saw is probably one of the bolts that got replaced on the second pitch of Night Vision (see comments there for details). Apr 1, 2006
Did somebody put a bolt on this thing...? Looked across today at it and it seemed like there was a new bolt below the fixed pin by 10 ft or so. Maybe a face variation, or from my perspective, it wasn't on the East Edge? I hope not! That route has great character and doesn't need anymore fixed gear on it. Mar 31, 2006
Ken Heiser
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Ken Heiser   Boulder, CO
  5.10a
I led this route last week for the first time and really enjoyed it.We did the first pitch of Night Vision to start.I found the gear to be excellent and easy to place. Really fun route and a good after work excursion. Aug 9, 2004
TBD
TBD  
To me, it made more sense to climb straight up to the roof just left of the belay. There is a thin crack system that offers plenty for small nuts. Once reaching the roof travers a couple of feet to the right until you can reach the good horizontal crack above the roof.

I think this route can be sewn up with a set of RPs or micro stoppers. I didn't place a single cam on the whole pitch. Jun 24, 2002
Chris Dawson
Denver, CO
Chris Dawson   Denver, CO
There is a variation to this route, that I'm not sure has an established name or anything, but I'm sure it's been climbed before. Instead of starting up the left-facing corner into the overlap, it's possible to climb start about 6-8 ft. to the right. This leads up into incipient cracks with sparse pro above the overlap. Moves felt like hard .9 or easy .10, but it's been a while, so I'm not sure my memory serves correctly. Eventually, the pitch wanders up into easier, though steep ground with a nice crack and good pro. Pretty much the whole thing can be done in one long pitch. Once again, I'm not sure how much different this is from the East Crack described, but it seems to me that it's a different pitch altogether. Please anyone feel free to correct me or inform of the proper name for the climbing described. One quick note on bees on Cob. I have been up there on a day when some people knocked off a sizeable nest and there were bees all over the place. Crawling on my legs as I led the second pitch of Empor! Just please be careful of those pesky bastards, they're everywhere anyways, we don't need to climb through angry swarms. Apr 11, 2002
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
It was probably 6 years ago when I did this, but I recall the runout moves are at the start before the roof, where it is only 5.8-9. Another way to start this climb is the first pitch of Night Vision (10b, look for 2 bolts left of Huston's Crack). This is much easier than the 10d thin crack right of Huston's Crack, and doesn't require big cams and grunting like Huston's Crack. Nov 7, 2001
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b PG13
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b PG13
Well, this time Charles and I disagree on the Protection. Perhaps I was too tenuous to place, or perhaps it is my height, but I found myself struggling a bit for good gear on this route. My partner, who is shorter than I agreed that the gear was difficult or lacking. Then again, I normally climb in Eldo, not Boulder Canyon.

The moves are very cool, however, and very worthwhile. Nov 6, 2001