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Magician's Apprentice
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 2.3 from 26
votes
Routes in Morning Sun Wall
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Albatross T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Beast Master T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Diagonal Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Five Seven Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Gun Control S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Howitzer, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lowly Morning V0 4 PG13 |
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Magician's Apprentice S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Marijuana S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Millard Filmore Memorial, The T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Morning Glory S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Mystical Potato Head Groove Thing S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Pointillist S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Renaissance S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Rising Sun T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Super Chunk V9 7C |
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| Type: | Sport, TR |
| GPS: | 39.34873, -104.76605 |
| FA: | Hanson & Sills, 1990? |
| Page Views: | 2,047 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Kreighton Bieger on Apr 29, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more.
Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal raptor closures with 2025 closure until Aug. 31, 2025
Details
Per Rachel Chaffee, one of the Park Rangers at Castlewood Canyon State Park. We are extending the Morning Sun Wall and Cliff Base Trail closure till the end of August for 2025.
If you have any questions please feel free to reach out to us at 303-688-5242 or dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.us.
Per Castlewood Canyon: there is a new closure for nesting raptors this year: Five and Dime will be closed March 1st through July 31st. If you have any questions please feel free to reach out to me, Rachel Chaffee (Park Ranger) at dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.us or by phone at 303-688-5242.
Per Garrett Garner-Wells:
the current raptor closures, announced by CPW and reported on Denver7:
The following climbing route closures are currently in place:
- Morning Sun Wall is closed March 1-July 31.
- Porky’s Wall is closed March 1 - July 31.
- Vultures Wall is closed March 1-July 31. (per Rachel, CCSP Ranger, dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.use or 303-688-5242)
- Shakespearean Theater is closed March 1-May 31.
- Mind Meld is closed March 1-May 31.
As of 2020:
There is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
If you have any questions please feel free to reach out to us at 303-688-5242 or dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.us.
Per Castlewood Canyon: there is a new closure for nesting raptors this year: Five and Dime will be closed March 1st through July 31st. If you have any questions please feel free to reach out to me, Rachel Chaffee (Park Ranger) at dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.us or by phone at 303-688-5242.
Per Garrett Garner-Wells:
the current raptor closures, announced by CPW and reported on Denver7:
The following climbing route closures are currently in place:
- Morning Sun Wall is closed March 1-July 31.
- Porky’s Wall is closed March 1 - July 31.
- Vultures Wall is closed March 1-July 31. (per Rachel, CCSP Ranger, dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.use or 303-688-5242)
- Shakespearean Theater is closed March 1-May 31.
- Mind Meld is closed March 1-May 31.
As of 2020:
There is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure 2025 - until August 31, 2025
Details
Per Rachel Chaffee, one of the Park Rangers at Castlewood Canyon State Park. We are extending the Morning Sun Wall and Cliff Base Trail closure till the end of August for 2025.
If you have any questions please feel free to reach out to us at 303-688-5242 or dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.us.
Due to a variety of species that use Morning Sun Wall for nesting, it will be closed annually from March 1 - July 31. If you have any questions you can email dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.us or call the park at 303-688-5242 to confirm any of this information.
If you have any questions please feel free to reach out to us at 303-688-5242 or dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.us.
Due to a variety of species that use Morning Sun Wall for nesting, it will be closed annually from March 1 - July 31. If you have any questions you can email dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.us or call the park at 303-688-5242 to confirm any of this information.
Description
Just left of Marijuana, this route starts from the same ledge and has a sporty first bolt that is easily stick-clipped. Follow three bolts to a ledge, passing a lieback/jam flake. There is a bolt on the ledge that is not visible from the ground. From the ledge, fire up on positive holds and another flake until crux cobbles and pockets beckon. A fine outing.
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