Type: Sport, TR
FA: Hanson & Sills, 1990?
Page Views: 841 total · 3/month
Shared By: Darin Lang on Apr 29, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Follow a left-leaning "crack" for a sustained and chossy ride past the first three bolts. The first bolt is quite high and the rock below it is a bit loose - stick clip advised. Once at the "rest" ledge, head straight up the improbable headwall past the last two bolts. The guidebook notes that a large hueco to the left "will grant you easier passage" after the last bolt, but this way seems very contrived and would implicate a decent pendulum. It is best to power straight up via an unlikely-looking dyno from a kneebar - probably 11b or so. It gets 0.83 stars, but with a little more traffic (and consequent removal of some of the lower choss), this would be a fine outing.

Protection Suggest change

5 QDs plus something for the two-bolt anchor.

Location Suggest change

This is the rightmost of the four bolted routes near Marijuana and Renaissance.

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