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Routes in Morning Sun Wall

Albatross T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Beast Master T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Diagonal Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Five Seven Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gun Control S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Howitzer, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lowly Morning V0 4 PG13
Magician's Apprentice S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Marijuana S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Millard Filmore Memorial, The T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Morning Glory S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mystical Potato Head Groove Thing S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pointillist S,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Renaissance S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rising Sun T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Super Chunk V9 7C
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Type: Sport
FA: Hanson & Sills, circa 1990?
Page Views: 261 total · 1/month
Shared By: Chris Cavallaro on Nov 3, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details


Ah yeah...this is a great climb with two fun sections. On the Morning Sun Wall to the right of the other mentioned climbs are 4 sport climbs with two-bolt anchors atop. Marijuana is the second from the left and starts atop a ledge. You may want a stick clip for the first. The bolts atop are not to be lowered off, so one will have to eventually clean the draws and walk off (the best way is opposite of the Cave Wall). You may also want to use 2 foot slings atop to eliminate rope drag. Party on!


6-7 draws.


Darin Lang
Darin Lang  
Bolt placements are pretty sporty, but the harder moves are reasonably protected. The guidebook lists the route as 10d - I'd call it at least 10c. Apr 23, 2002
Englewood, CO
ROC   Englewood, CO
Fun climb, but be carful leading it out. Especially after the huge legde halfway up. JUst above that there is a sloper thats pretty greasy. My friend bailed at this spot and busted up his ankle pretty good when he hit the ledge below. Belayers, heads up on this one. Mar 10, 2003
Scott Robertson
Portland, OR
Scott Robertson   Portland, OR
Is it alright to toprope this route, are the bolts on top in good shape? How many are there... May 22, 2003
Darin Lang
Darin Lang  
The TR setup is fine. Two good bolts on top. May 22, 2003
It is probably always best to toprope Marijuana. May 22, 2003
Scott Robertson
Portland, OR
Scott Robertson   Portland, OR
In my defense, I'm only sometimes on this route (Marijuana that is)... Apr 23, 2006
This is a wonderful line! The bolt spacing is good for the mind. Great rests, be confident, it's all there! Jul 31, 2007
Dan 60D5H411
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10d PG13
Dan 60D5H411   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10d PG13
Be careful moving past the first bolt above the middle ledge. I fudged the sequence and came very close to introducing my ankles to the ledge. Any one who wants some BETA: From the first, large, sloping hueco move left for a deep slash in the face, rather than up to the right towards some slippery cobbles and another large dish/pocket. Aug 13, 2007
Surprisingly fun and good warm up. If you are here, do this route! Oct 19, 2014

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