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Routes in Morning Sun Wall

Albatross T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Diagonal Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Five Seven Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gun Control S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Howitzer, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lowly Morning V0 4 PG13
Magician's Apprentice S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Marijuana S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Millard Filmore Memorial, The T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Morning Glory S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mystical Potato Head Groove Thing S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pointillist S,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Renaissance S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rising Sun S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Super Chunk V9 7C
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, TR
FA: Hanson & Sills, 1990?
Page Views: 1,422 total · 7/month
Shared By: Darin Lang on Apr 29, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Keep in mind that the 3 star rating above is relative to the area. Nonetheless, this is the best route I have done so far at the Wood. This is a perfect before-work climb (as are the adjacent climbs), with direct sun on the climb as soon as the sun breaks over the east rim.

Park at the Falls trailhead lot. The clean face on which this climb is found is evident from the parking lot. Make the short hike up the good trail just west of the lot, rack up, and go.

The first bolt can be clipped from a great pocket/lieback just off the starting ledge, but the bad fall potential at this spot might make one lean towards a stick clip. Follow two more bolts past two short bouldery sections with good ledge rests, and then tackle the final two bolts on the headwall via a tricky sequence or two. There are two good bolts on top.

Protection

5 QDs plus something for the two-bolt anchor.

Location

This will be the first bolted route to the right of Marijuana (or the third bolted route from the left).

Photos

drewhouser
  5.11a
drewhouser  
  5.11a
Yup, start is 11 fo sho, and cruise on from there. Oct 19, 2014
Anselk
Englewood
  5.10d PG13
Anselk   Englewood
  5.10d PG13
I might be inclined to say this is a 5.10 d just because once you get that start, the rest is really cake. A little balancy, but not hard. Oct 12, 2011
Actually, I didn't replace the bolt, I added a hanger to the existing stud. The nut threaded cleanly and I applied as much torque as I could with a 6" wrench with no problems. I felt comfortable enough to lead on it, but if anyone is unsure, I'll take it back off.

This climb and the others next to it are some of the best in CWC. Good movement with great rock and plenty of opportunity for rests. Aug 14, 2007
Dan G0D5H411
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11a
Dan G0D5H411   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11a
The bottom bolt has been replaced (just an observation, not saying I did it...). Aug 13, 2007
Mike Lane
Centennial, CO
Mike Lane   Centennial, CO
Regarding the first bolt being stripped, my take is that someone sketched out on that clip, possibly even dropping off. This person then decided for all of us that [we're] better off either climbing to #2 or stick clipping. Had Rawl bolts been used instead of Red-Heads - with the protruding threaded stub - the clip could easily be restored. Tom and I revisited this route about a year ago and didn't think the missing clip was all that big of a deal. Nov 15, 2005
Darin Lang  
 
N.B. - as of 8/20/02, some clown has removed the hanger and stripped the threads on the first bolt on this climb. It angles slightly downward, so a wired nut isn't going to help much. If you want to lead this, you'll now have to climb all the way through the initial, overhanging crux, with no protection and really bad fall potential. I call it a TR now, but perhaps I just don't have the stones ... Aug 23, 2002
Darin Lang  
 
Oops. This will be the first bolted route to the right of Marijuana (or the third bolted route from the left). Apr 30, 2002

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