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Routes in Morning Sun Wall
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Albatross T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Beast Master T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Diagonal Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Five Seven Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Gun Control S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Howitzer, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lowly Morning V0 4 PG13 |
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Magician's Apprentice S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Marijuana S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Millard Filmore Memorial, The T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Morning Glory S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Mystical Potato Head Groove Thing S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Pointillist S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Renaissance S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Rising Sun T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Super Chunk V9 7C |
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| Type: | Sport |
| FA: | Tom Hanson, Scott Sills, 1989. |
| Page Views: | 1,732 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Historical seasonal raptor closures with 2023 updates
Details
Per Castlewood Canyon: there is a new closure for nesting raptors this year: Five and Dime will be closed March 1st through July 31st. If you have any questions please feel free to reach out to me, Rachel Chaffee (Park Ranger) at dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.us or by phone at 303-688-5242.
Per Garrett Garner-Wells:
the current raptor closures, announced by CPW and reported on Denver7:
The following climbing route closures are currently in place:
- Morning Sun Wall is closed March 1-July 31.
- Porky’s Wall is closed March 1 - July 31.
- Vultures Wall is closed March 1-July 31. (per Rachel, CCSP Ranger, dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.use or 303-688-5242)
- Shakespearean Theater is closed March 1-May 31.
- Mind Meld is closed March 1-May 31.
As of 2020:
There is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
Per Garrett Garner-Wells:
the current raptor closures, announced by CPW and reported on Denver7:
The following climbing route closures are currently in place:
- Morning Sun Wall is closed March 1-July 31.
- Porky’s Wall is closed March 1 - July 31.
- Vultures Wall is closed March 1-July 31. (per Rachel, CCSP Ranger, dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.use or 303-688-5242)
- Shakespearean Theater is closed March 1-May 31.
- Mind Meld is closed March 1-May 31.
As of 2020:
There is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure 2022
Details
Due to a variety of species that use Morning Sun Wall for nesting, it will be closed annually from March 1 - July 31. If you have any questions you can email dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.us or call the park at 303-688-5242 to confirm any of this information.
Description
This is a very asthetic line, and a nice length for the Wood (about 65 feet of climbing). The first bolt is about 15 feet off the deck and the moves are dicey (for the 5.10 climber), so make sure you're solid for this first clip. The crux is a balancy pull up to a bulge to get to some deep pockets. A cobble may have pulled out at this bulge, leaving a slopey pocket and a cobble pinch for your hands. Once past the big pocket, pull quickly through this overhanging section for some more bomber pockets. Now angle up to the right through a few more slightly runout bolts to the anchors. This is a great route with a tricky and strenuous crux.
Photos
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