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Routes in The Citadel
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Candyland T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Central Sweden T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Eliminator, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Heart Of Norway T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Picadilly Circus T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sanitarium T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Stonewalled T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Storming the Castle T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Sunset Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Woke a Dope T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad |
| FA: | Billy Wesbay and Michael Covington, 1975 |
| Page Views: | 606 total · 2/month |
| Shared By: | paco on Mar 1, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2022 Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
While Pically Circus may not the best route around over all, it does contain one of the best roof cracks on Lumpy!
Easily seen from the Black Canyon Trail or the summit of the Pear is a nice looking crack breaking the lower left slab leading to the headwall of The Citadel. Climb this eventually making a traverse left to the wide dihedral. Head up the not-so beautiful crack and go left to a nice belay ledge below the roof with the hand crack running through it. Jam and undercling the sharp, evil underside of the roof(#4 Camalot) and crank the clean, body length hand crack through the center of the roof. So good! Belay above the roof and then head up and left to the top.
Easily seen from the Black Canyon Trail or the summit of the Pear is a nice looking crack breaking the lower left slab leading to the headwall of The Citadel. Climb this eventually making a traverse left to the wide dihedral. Head up the not-so beautiful crack and go left to a nice belay ledge below the roof with the hand crack running through it. Jam and undercling the sharp, evil underside of the roof(#4 Camalot) and crank the clean, body length hand crack through the center of the roof. So good! Belay above the roof and then head up and left to the top.
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