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Routes in The Citadel

Candyland T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Central Sweden T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Eliminator, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Heart Of Norway T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Picadilly Circus T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sanitarium T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stonewalled T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Storming the Castle T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sunset Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Scott Kimball and Gary Sapp, 1984
Page Views: 102 total, 1/month
Shared By: paco on May 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Season raptor closures Details

Description

Candyland is a good route with a great crux pitch.

Approach as for Heart of Norway, but just before reaching it, break left across a short but exposed low 5th class traverse. After this, continue up and left to the base of the beautiful, left-slanting crack which is the start of the route. Fire up this crux pitch with some fantastic finger locks and a tricky wide section. One may rap from fixed anchors at this point, but the route has some interesting climbing after this also.

Pitch 2: swim through a crack which is infested with lichen, but continue to cleaner rock and a belly flop through a tunnel to find a nice belay ledge.

Pitch 3 heads out right to a mank bolt a few feet out on a slab. This bolt needs a replacement, although I found an okay #00 TCU placement right above it. Some nice (solid 5.9?) face climbing leads past the bolt and left to easier cracks and the summit.

Protection

Bring your average Lumpy rack up to a #3 or #4 Camalot.

Photos

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Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10c PG13
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10c PG13
16 years, this bolt is no finer than it was when described in 2001. Calling it 'mank' is generous. DO NOT fall on that bolt. 1/4" bolt pulled partially out, rusted in, bent down, and then paralleled at the head on a Leeper hanger....

Yeah, replace that junk.... Aug 15, 2017