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Routes in The Citadel

Candyland T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Central Sweden T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Eliminator, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Heart Of Norway T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Picadilly Circus T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sanitarium T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stonewalled T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Storming the Castle T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sunset Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Scott Kimball and Gary Sapp, 1984
Page Views: 120 total · 1/month
Shared By: paco on May 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description [Edit]

Candyland is a good route with a great crux pitch.

Approach as for Heart of Norway, but just before reaching it, break left across a short but exposed low 5th class traverse. After this, continue up and left to the base of the beautiful, left-slanting crack which is the start of the route. Fire up this crux pitch with some fantastic finger locks and a tricky wide section. One may rap from fixed anchors at this point, but the route has some interesting climbing after this also.

Pitch 2: swim through a crack which is infested with lichen, but continue to cleaner rock and a belly flop through a tunnel to find a nice belay ledge.

Pitch 3 heads out right to a mank bolt a few feet out on a slab. This bolt needs a replacement, although I found an okay #00 TCU placement right above it. Some nice (solid 5.9?) face climbing leads past the bolt and left to easier cracks and the summit.

Protection [Edit]

Bring your average Lumpy rack up to a #3 or #4 Camalot.

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Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10c PG13
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10c PG13
16 years, this bolt is no finer than it was when described in 2001. Calling it 'mank' is generous. DO NOT fall on that bolt. 1/4" bolt pulled partially out, rusted in, bent down, and then paralleled at the head on a Leeper hanger....

Yeah, replace that junk.... Aug 15, 2017

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