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Routes in The Citadel
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Candyland T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Central Sweden T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Eliminator, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Heart Of Norway T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Picadilly Circus T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sanitarium T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Stonewalled T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Storming the Castle T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Sunset Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches |
| FA: | Scott Kimball and Gary Sapp, 1984 |
| Page Views: | 228 total · 1/month |
| Shared By: | paco on May 31, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
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Access Issue: Season raptor closures
Details
Seasonal Raptor Closures March 1-July 31 or until further notice:
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
For up to date closures visit: nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
For up to date closures visit: nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Description
Candyland is a good route with a great crux pitch.
Approach as for Heart of Norway, but just before reaching it, break left across a short but exposed low 5th class traverse. After this, continue up and left to the base of the beautiful, left-slanting crack which is the start of the route. Fire up this crux pitch with some fantastic finger locks and a tricky wide section. One may rap from fixed anchors at this point, but the route has some interesting climbing after this also.
Pitch 2: swim through a crack which is infested with lichen, but continue to cleaner rock and a belly flop through a tunnel to find a nice belay ledge.
Pitch 3 heads out right to a mank bolt a few feet out on a slab. This bolt needs a replacement, although I found an okay #00 TCU placement right above it. Some nice (solid 5.9?) face climbing leads past the bolt and left to easier cracks and the summit.
Approach as for Heart of Norway, but just before reaching it, break left across a short but exposed low 5th class traverse. After this, continue up and left to the base of the beautiful, left-slanting crack which is the start of the route. Fire up this crux pitch with some fantastic finger locks and a tricky wide section. One may rap from fixed anchors at this point, but the route has some interesting climbing after this also.
Pitch 2: swim through a crack which is infested with lichen, but continue to cleaner rock and a belly flop through a tunnel to find a nice belay ledge.
Pitch 3 heads out right to a mank bolt a few feet out on a slab. This bolt needs a replacement, although I found an okay #00 TCU placement right above it. Some nice (solid 5.9?) face climbing leads past the bolt and left to easier cracks and the summit.
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