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Routes in The Citadel

Candyland T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Central Sweden T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Eliminator, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Heart Of Norway T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Picadilly Circus T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sanitarium T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stonewalled T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Storming the Castle T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sunset Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: August, 2002
Page Views: 514 total · 3/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Aug 1, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Season raptor closures Details

Description

This was first ascended by Eli Helmuth who equipped the route with Keith Garvey.

This modern mixed route starts in the obvious, right-facing corner approximately 30' left of Heart of Norway. There is a fixed pin in the first dihedral. The route goes right after 40' (a #1 Camalot helpful here) past two bolts to join the wide crack system which is part of the route "It Went straight up the Middle". The first pitch crux is at the top of the wide crack where it goes through a small overhang - a bolt protects this crux. It then reaches a wide ledge where there is a two-bolt anchor - 95' to the ground from here. This is the same first pitch anchor as for the route Heart of Norway.

The second pitch continues up the beginning of Heart of Norway then steps right after the two overlaps and follows two bolts then small fixed wires up a seam (strenuous liebacking) to a third bolt which protects the second pitch desperate crux and joins the anchors at the top of Heart of Norway (two bolts - 95').

Protection

The first pitch has 3 bolts for protection and a fixed pin. Small & medium nuts; #1, #2, & #3 Camalot sizes are helpful as well. The second pitch has 3 bolts and numerous fixed small wires for protection if no one has stolen them.

Photos

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...Although some have had a problem with Eli's actions in the past, his routes are generally quite good. Before you bash a person you hardly know, you should climb a number of them first. Aug 30, 2005