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Central Sweden [Edit]
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British R
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in The Citadel
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Candyland T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Central Sweden T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Eliminator, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Heart Of Norway T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Picadilly Circus T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sanitarium T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Stonewalled T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Storming the Castle T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Sunset Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 190 ft |
| FA: | T. Bubb, J. Meir, 8/2017 |
| Page Views: | 69 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Aug 14, 2017 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
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Access Issue: Season raptor closures
Details
Seasonal Raptor Closures March 1-July 31 or until further notice:
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
For up to date closures visit: nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
For up to date closures visit: nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Description [Edit]
This has relatively moderate rock with modest opportunity for protection.
I once took a trip to Sweden to meet Joseffa for some climbing, when she had taken a contract there for a few years. A combination of weather and chance diverted us from our intended destinations. June of 2012 was the rainiest June in Sweden since 1658 or something like that, and cragging was near impossible, but we pushed on to other things (kayaking in Norway), and what started as a trip to Central Sweden landed us in the heart of Norway. Regardless, a good time was had. This experience was recalled on the pitch to be described below, where unanticipated water and conditions diverted our intention to a different line than first targeted.
So, locate a huge right-facing corner system down and left from Heart of Norway, and just right of the start of Candyland. A small bush dangles down from its roots about 20' up the crack. The corner is mossy, if not seeping, at and above this point.
Climb to the bush, stem out, and then head up and right 5 meters to a set of chickenheads at a bulge. A few small Aliens/TCUs can go in here to protect the crux. If you blow the crux and the cams, you will suffer. So be sure of one or the other, and place a few pieces. The moves are not hard but are insecure.
Ride up a slight depression for a few moves and onto a slab, which is again unprotectable.
Trend right towards a corner and get a few pieces of protection, riding the right side of the rock, placing in that corner when possible. After ~ 60m, you are level with a belay tree. Step right to that, and belay.
I once took a trip to Sweden to meet Joseffa for some climbing, when she had taken a contract there for a few years. A combination of weather and chance diverted us from our intended destinations. June of 2012 was the rainiest June in Sweden since 1658 or something like that, and cragging was near impossible, but we pushed on to other things (kayaking in Norway), and what started as a trip to Central Sweden landed us in the heart of Norway. Regardless, a good time was had. This experience was recalled on the pitch to be described below, where unanticipated water and conditions diverted our intention to a different line than first targeted.
So, locate a huge right-facing corner system down and left from Heart of Norway, and just right of the start of Candyland. A small bush dangles down from its roots about 20' up the crack. The corner is mossy, if not seeping, at and above this point.
Climb to the bush, stem out, and then head up and right 5 meters to a set of chickenheads at a bulge. A few small Aliens/TCUs can go in here to protect the crux. If you blow the crux and the cams, you will suffer. So be sure of one or the other, and place a few pieces. The moves are not hard but are insecure.
Ride up a slight depression for a few moves and onto a slab, which is again unprotectable.
Trend right towards a corner and get a few pieces of protection, riding the right side of the rock, placing in that corner when possible. After ~ 60m, you are level with a belay tree. Step right to that, and belay.
Location [Edit]
This route starts in the massive, right-facing corner almost directly below --Candyland and makes its way past a small bush dangling down the crack from 20' up, then strikes out right to ride a rib of rock past some edges, chickenheads, and a few points of pro to the right, finally ending up at the big tree with rap slings below 'Heart Of Norway.'
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