Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 190 ft (58 m)|
|FA:||T. Bubb, J. Meir, 8/2017|
|Page Views:||513 total · 9/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Aug 14, 2017|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)-nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
I once took a trip to Sweden to meet Joseffa for some climbing, when she had taken a contract there for a few years. A combination of weather and chance diverted us from our intended destinations. June of 2012 was the rainiest June in Sweden since 1658 or something like that, and cragging was near impossible, but we pushed on to other things (kayaking in Norway), and what started as a trip to Central Sweden landed us in the heart of Norway. Regardless, a good time was had. This experience was recalled on the pitch to be described below, where unanticipated water and conditions diverted our intention to a different line than first targeted.
So, locate a huge right-facing corner system down and left from Heart of Norway, and just right of the start of Candyland. A small bush dangles down from its roots about 20' up the crack. The corner is mossy, if not seeping, at and above this point.
Climb to the bush, stem out, and then head up and right 5 meters to a set of chickenheads at a bulge. A few small Aliens/TCUs can go in here to protect the crux. If you blow the crux and the cams, you will suffer. So be sure of one or the other, and place a few pieces. The moves are not hard but are insecure.
Ride up a slight depression for a few moves and onto a slab, which is again unprotectable.
Trend right towards a corner and get a few pieces of protection, riding the right side of the rock, placing in that corner when possible. After ~ 60m, you are level with a belay tree. Step right to that, and belay.