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Routes in The Citadel

Candyland T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Central Sweden T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Eliminator, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Heart Of Norway T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Picadilly Circus T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sanitarium T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stonewalled T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Storming the Castle T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sunset Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Eli Helmuth
Page Views: 1,545 total, 10/month
Shared By: Eli Helmuth on Apr 12, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Season raptor closures Details

Description

This is one of the best crack pitches at Lumpy and well worth the approach. It is of Cookie Cliff quality with solid gear the entire pitch. This route starts just to the left of The Eliminator and a few feet left of the classic two pitch route, Heart of Norway which makes for a great warm-up.

A thin crack/face crux leads to a roof which is bypassed on the left. After this, the route backs off to a 5.10 rating for the remaining 50 feet. There is a two bolt anchor at the top of this pitch.

Protection

A lone bolt protects the first crux and a green Alien is helpful to reach the bolt. A large nut can protect the second roof crux. Cams up to #2 Camalot are helpful.

Photos

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