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Routes in The Starcastle
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Citadel, The S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Elliptical Seasons S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Forces S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Fountains of Light S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Golden Hair T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Lady Of The Lake S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Pig's Nose S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Portraits S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Reel to Real T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Silver Winds T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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To The Fire Wind T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Warping The Gale S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad |
| FA: | Alan Nelson, Richard Wright |
| Page Views: | 674 total · 2/month |
| Shared By: | Alan Nelson on Dec 10, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Road and Raptor Closures
Details
Per Ross Andrea: Ramparts Range Road is closed December 1.
March 1st-July 31st: Devil's Head Rock, Sin City, & Recovery Wall are closed for raptor protection. The vast majority of the other crags are unaffected by the closure. Please visit:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/psicc/al… for additional information and maps.
March 1st-July 31st: Devil's Head Rock, Sin City, & Recovery Wall are closed for raptor protection. The vast majority of the other crags are unaffected by the closure. Please visit:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/psicc/al… for additional information and maps.
Description
This fine crack caught my eye during my first tour of the "Head". While the rest of the crew clipped bolts on the fabulous Starcastle sport routes, I learned that this clean and obvious trad crack remained unclimbed. Reaching deep in my pack for my "other" rack, it wasn't long before this situation was remedied.
Silver Winds starts in a clean, left-leaning, finger crack about 30' right (north) of "Warping the Gale". The crack ends about halfway up but is replaced by a left-leaning flake that carries you to a scenic, flat belay ledge.
Alas, there is no easy descent (and thus only two stars instead of three). I need to return with a drill to install a permanent belay anchor on top. We scrambled around until we found a block we could sling for a rappel a short distance to the north. If the sling is still there, it is long overdue for replacement, so plan to leave some webbing.
Silver Winds starts in a clean, left-leaning, finger crack about 30' right (north) of "Warping the Gale". The crack ends about halfway up but is replaced by a left-leaning flake that carries you to a scenic, flat belay ledge.
Alas, there is no easy descent (and thus only two stars instead of three). I need to return with a drill to install a permanent belay anchor on top. We scrambled around until we found a block we could sling for a rappel a short distance to the north. If the sling is still there, it is long overdue for replacement, so plan to leave some webbing.
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