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Routes in The Starcastle

Citadel, The S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Elliptical Seasons S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Forces S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fountains of Light S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Golden Hair T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lady Of The Lake S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pig's Nose S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Portraits S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Reel to Real T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Silver Winds T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
To The Fire Wind T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Warping The Gale S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad
FA: Alan Nelson, Richard Wright
Page Views: 86 total · 0/month
Shared By: Alan Nelson on Dec 10, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Raptor Closures Details


This fine crack caught my eye during my first tour of the "Head". While the rest of the crew clipped bolts on the fabulous Starcastle sport routes, I learned that this clean and obvious trad crack remained unclimbed. Reaching deep in my pack for my "other" rack, it wasn't long before this situation was remedied.

Silver Winds starts in a clean, left-leaning, finger crack about 30' right (north) of "Warping the Gale". The crack ends about halfway up but is replaced by a left-leaning flake that carries you to a scenic, flat belay ledge.

Alas, there is no easy descent (and thus only two stars instead of three). I need to return with a drill to install a permanent belay anchor on top. We scrambled around until we found a block we could sling for a rappel a short distance to the north. If the sling is still there, it is long overdue for replacement, so plan to leave some webbing.


Standard rack to 3". NO FIXED ANCHORS! (and no easy way down).


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It should be possible to downclimb off to the northeast (towards Pig's Nose) of this route without rappelling, although some protection will be needed. Sep 15, 2010

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