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Routes in The Starcastle

Citadel, The S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Elliptical Seasons S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Forces S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fountains of Light S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lady Of The Lake S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pig's Nose S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Portraits S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Reel to Real T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Silver Winds T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
To The Fire Wind T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Warping The Gale S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, TR, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,142 total · 6/month
Shared By: Nate Adams on Oct 9, 2003
Admins: Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Leo Paik, John McNamee

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Access Issue: Raptor Closures Details

Description [Edit]

This is a fun route with good edges and a small roof thrown in for good measure. Clean, safe and a great view!

Protection [Edit]

Approximately 10 bolts (check the quidebook or count hangers) and 2 coldshut anchors.


Kevin Neilson
Kevin Neilson   Boulder
This is one of the most fun intermediate routes I've done at Devil's Head. The roof looks intimidating but, while exposed, isn't difficult to ascend. The crux is actually on the face below the roof. At the top, leave the crack and go left up the face for some thin slab moves. Try not to move too far left of the bolt line near the anchors. Jul 17, 2006

fun route. as noted, the bit before the roof is kind of in your face, and the roof isn't too bad. i was kind of surprised at the little runout to the anchors. this section felt like the crux, and at the end of a long day of climbing i have to say i was pretty focused. Jul 23, 2012
J. Albers
J. Albers   Colorado
There is a loose block just right of the first bolt that badly needs to be dealt with. It's about the size of a large suitcase, and the fracturing extends completely around and behind the block; the only thing holding it in is a couple of small chockstones. It is highly likely that folks that are not paying attention are using this thing as a hand and foot hold (it's right on the bolt line). If, or more likely when, someone pulls this thing off, it will almost certainly hit the big slab at the base of the route and head right for the belay stance. If this thing hits someone, it will either completely mame or kill won't be pretty.

If I get up to DH again in the near future during the week when the crag is empty, I will bring my prybar to deal with this; however, considering this is most certainly not my home crag, a local should consider dealing with it when they get a chance. Oct 10, 2012
While the lower section is a bit in your face, I think the technical crux is at and above the last bolt going to the anchors. Really nice route with a little bit of spice to it. Jun 23, 2016

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