Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Starcastle

Citadel, The S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Elliptical Seasons S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Forces S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fountains of Light S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Golden Hair T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lady Of The Lake S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pig's Nose S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Portraits S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Reel to Real T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Silver Winds T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
To The Fire Wind T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Warping The Gale S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Tod Anderson
Page Views: 559 total · 3/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Mar 19, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


10 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Raptor Closures Details

Description

Starting on the big talus blocks and tanning slab at the upper (North) end of the wall and before the rope scramble, Warping The Gale is a fine warm up route. Every move is between 5.10a and 5.10d and on fine clean edges. The climbing is continuous, a bit tricky, and a complete gas. Thin at the top.

Protection

QDs only. At 80 feet, Warping The Gale needs only 10-12 QDs and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.

Photos

DUCKMAN  
A good warm up route and not too difficult, however the hike up the trail and the hill to get to the wall will wear on you once on the rock. A lot of loose flakes and rock on the upper half of the route. Bolts are difficult to see from gound because they are painted the same color as the rock. Make sure you can see the next bolt before making a tricky move! Jul 22, 2003
Kevin Neilson
Boulder
 
Kevin Neilson   Boulder
 
These climbs are more easily accessed from the north, as described in the StarCastle intro.

Nice route with good hands and feet at most every move. The arete is helpful during the middle portion of the climb. Climb a few feet above the anchors at the top and you can get a great view of the west. Jul 17, 2006
slim

  5.10d
slim    
  5.10d
a good route with a lot of fun climbing on big holds, up to a slightly awkward finish. the arete work was pretty cool. Jul 23, 2012

More About Warping The Gale

Printer-Friendly