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Routes in The Starcastle

Citadel, The S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Elliptical Seasons S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Forces S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fountains of Light S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Golden Hair T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lady Of The Lake S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pig's Nose S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Portraits S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Reel to Real T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Silver Winds T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
To The Fire Wind T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Warping The Gale S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Tod Anderson
Page Views: 827 total · 4/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Mar 19, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Raptor Closures Details

Description

This excellent face climb shares an anchor with Warping The Gale, and just like Warping, it is a very continuous climb. Every move is between 5.10c and 5.11b, and there must be close to twenty of them. Also like Warping, the climbing is on small edges, vertical, and bullet proof. Bring the edging shoes. Although a straight up vectorial climb, route finding on The Lady is often not simple. Three stars for continuity, the quality of the rock, and the view from the top.

Protection

QDs only. About one bolt and four moves longer than Warping The Gale.

Photos

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The tenuous block adjacent to the anchor was tossed on 9/11/10, and the anchor was upgraded with a stainless steel hardware as well. This route reminded me of why we went to the Starcastle in the first place, besides the views. Sep 15, 2010
slim

  5.10d
slim    
  5.10d
excellent route with sustained climbing in the 9 to 10 range on a nicely featured slab. the protection is very good, although there is one clip up high that is a little tenuous. edging shoes are helpful on this one. Jul 23, 2012

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