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West Point Crack
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British R
Avg: 2.7 from 155
votes
Routes in West Side
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Credibility Gap S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Green Arrow T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Insignificant But There T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Kor's Korner T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Pipe Dreams T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Pipe Route S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Practice Slab TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Short Headwall T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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West Gully T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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West Point Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches |
| FA: | U.S. Army Climbers, 1946. FFA Harvey Carter 1950s |
| Page Views: | 11,896 total · 42/month |
| Shared By: | A. R. Williams on Oct 6, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2024 Seasonal Closures - these are the same as 2023
Details
Per Bret Tennis, GOG Park Operations administrator: the seasonal closures are the same as in 2023 for 2024.
Previously per B. Tennis: all seasonal rock climbing closures in Garden of the Gods have been lifted for the season.
In 2023, they were the same as for 2022 and 2021.
Kindergarten/Gray Rock
North Gateway
Old info:
Previously: per Bret Tennis, as of 10/19/22: The Garden of the Gods has lifted all the seasonal rock climbing closures. Prior in 2020: seasonal raptor closures for 2020 were now lifted.
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Continued from last year closures on Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock:
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
Closures as of June 5, 2019:
The Northern end of North Gateway Rock is closed for raptor nesting.
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
Continued climbing closures from 2018:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open.
Previously per B. Tennis: all seasonal rock climbing closures in Garden of the Gods have been lifted for the season.
In 2023, they were the same as for 2022 and 2021.
Kindergarten/Gray Rock
North Gateway
Old info:
Previously: per Bret Tennis, as of 10/19/22: The Garden of the Gods has lifted all the seasonal rock climbing closures. Prior in 2020: seasonal raptor closures for 2020 were now lifted.
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Continued from last year closures on Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock:
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
Closures as of June 5, 2019:
The Northern end of North Gateway Rock is closed for raptor nesting.
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
Continued climbing closures from 2018:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open.
Description
Part of a large flake on the South Gateway Rock, it forms into a separate column near the top.
P1. The start is tricky, on a rough overhang. The old drilled pins have been replaced with 3 modern bolts. There is a thin belay stance about halfway up the length of the column. 50', 5.7.
P2. Ascend the crack that becomes a chimney passing 2 drilled pins. The best part is after you finish the chimney section and end the second pitch by pulling left onto the top of the column. The view is awesome, and well worth the effort. 95', 5.7+.
P3. To top out, you step across from the flake to the right just below a drilled pin. This move has become more difficult as the rock eroded. Climb past a drilled angle to a finishing groove. It is kind of scary and hard up there, so it's not done as often. Belay to the south on a ledge system behind the main wall. Scramble south down the big gully to the end of South Gateway to get off.
Reddish colored stone prevails on this climb.
AW
P1. The start is tricky, on a rough overhang. The old drilled pins have been replaced with 3 modern bolts. There is a thin belay stance about halfway up the length of the column. 50', 5.7.
P2. Ascend the crack that becomes a chimney passing 2 drilled pins. The best part is after you finish the chimney section and end the second pitch by pulling left onto the top of the column. The view is awesome, and well worth the effort. 95', 5.7+.
P3. To top out, you step across from the flake to the right just below a drilled pin. This move has become more difficult as the rock eroded. Climb past a drilled angle to a finishing groove. It is kind of scary and hard up there, so it's not done as often. Belay to the south on a ledge system behind the main wall. Scramble south down the big gully to the end of South Gateway to get off.
Reddish colored stone prevails on this climb.
AW
Protection
There are 3 rusty pitons (now replaced with modern bolts) total on the first pitch to a 2 bolt anchor with Metolius rap hangers (warning, these may be sharp due to toproping through them). For pitch 2, take medium to large hexes and Friends to supplement the 2 drilled pins. The anchor is a 2 bolt anchor with chains (for a 2 rope rappel off the back of the flake). Also, a couple of Big Bros are helpful near the top. There is a drilled pin on P3. There are pitons on the top of the column for an anchor once you're there. The rappel is tricky unless you have two ropes.
You can rappel of P1 with one rope. Beware that it is very difficult to pull your ropes if you try to rappel after P2 to the P1 anchors!
You can rappel of P1 with one rope. Beware that it is very difficult to pull your ropes if you try to rappel after P2 to the P1 anchors!
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