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Routes in West Side

Credibility Gap S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Green Arrow T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Insignificant But There T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Kor's Korner T,S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Pipe Dreams T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Pipe Route S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Practice Slab TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Short Headwall T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
West Point Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, Sport, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: FFA P1: Leonard Coyne, 1979, FFA P2: Richard Aschert, 1985
Page Views: 2,486 total, 18/month
Shared By: Rik Anderson on Apr 24, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details

Description

P1 .12a/b Start by climbing up to the chimney of Sandman, then begin to traverse to the right to a piton, clip a LONG runner to prevent rope drag. Turn the corner and work your way to the crack that goes up the spire. This face climbing is the crux and is protected by drilled pins. Work your way up the beautiful crack passing a couple of pins higher to the belay. Stoppers and #1-#2 Friends protect the crack nicely.

P2 .11a, Climb the face above following the pins, then traverse to the right to gain a flake then clip the last pin and on to the top.

Rap with 2 ropes from the anchor.

Location

Start about 60 feet to the left of West Point Crack.

Protection

Medium & large stoppers, a few cams 0.75-2.
ejesse
Colorado Springs
 
ejesse   Colorado Springs
 
Gear: nothing bigger than purple BD #0.5s at the top. In the business, it's grey, yellow, and green Aliens. I would recommend two of each so you are not wanting. You could place a blue, but I doubt it could hold a fall as the rock is soft. Prepare to be flummoxed by the ever daunting decision when climbing pin scars - do you want gear or handholds. Medium nuts would probably work brilliantly if you can hangout long enough to place them.

Also, you can prevent rope drag by back cleaning the first piton once you have clipped the second, or second and third. Oct 11, 2015
Jikimika Dinglehoffer   Lander, Wy
As for the gear, I think the poster means 0.75-2 INCHES, not in terms of Camalot size. Most of the crack is fingers size with pin scars. Aug 4, 2015
Logan Berndt
Colorado Springs
 
Logan Berndt   Colorado Springs
 
Excellent and exposed aid line! Oct 27, 2011
Allen Hill
FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Allen Hill   FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Kor actually didn't climb this. He's perplexed as anyone why it bares his name. Sep 22, 2010