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Routes in West Side

Credibility Gap S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Green Arrow T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Insignificant But There T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Kor's Korner T,S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Pipe Dreams T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Pipe Route S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Practice Slab TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Short Headwall T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
West Point Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 455 total, 5/month
Shared By: Bosier Parsons on Nov 4, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details

Description

This climb is located on the west face of South Gateway Rock, near the south end of the formation, about 100 feet (?) south of Credibility Gap.

Climb the overlaps which look easy but are a little balancey and spooky. Gain a good stance below the headwall where you can place some cams. I placed a #0.4 Camalot and a yellow C3 Camalot in an undercling, but these were not inspiring. Step left and place a bomber #2 Camalot in a pothole, which at least protects you as you step up towards the piton. Step up and clip the piton and crank through the bulge. Be ready for some slopers through the crux.

Belay from the small tree behind the headwall, or you can place a medium stopper and #0.75 Camalot in a crack in the side of the block facing north.

Walk off to the south to the saddle between South Gateway Rock and Kindergarten Rock.

Protection

1 ring angle piton, #2 Camalot.

Photos

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