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Routes in West Side
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Credibility Gap S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Green Arrow T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Insignificant But There T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Kor's Korner T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Pipe Dreams T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Pipe Route S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Practice Slab TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Short Headwall T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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West Gully T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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West Point Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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| Type: | Sport, 210 ft (64 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | FA: John Auld & Gary Ziegler, '61. FFA: Earl Wiggins & Jim Souder, '76 |
| Page Views: | 2,424 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Bosier Parsons on Sep 24, 2008 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2025 Seasonal Closures - these are the same as 2021-4
Details
Per Bret Tennis, GOG Park Operations administrator: the seasonal closures are the same as in 2021-4 for 2025.
Previously per B. Tennis: all seasonal rock climbing closures in Garden of the Gods were lifted for the season.
Kindergarten/Gray Rock
North Gateway
Old info:
Previously: per Bret Tennis, as of 10/19/22: The Garden of the Gods has lifted all the seasonal rock climbing closures. Prior in 2020: seasonal raptor closures for 2020 were now lifted.
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Continued from last year closures on Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock:
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
Closures as of June 5, 2019:
The Northern end of North Gateway Rock is closed for raptor nesting.
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
Continued climbing closures from 2018:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open.
Previously per B. Tennis: all seasonal rock climbing closures in Garden of the Gods were lifted for the season.
Kindergarten/Gray Rock
North Gateway
Old info:
Previously: per Bret Tennis, as of 10/19/22: The Garden of the Gods has lifted all the seasonal rock climbing closures. Prior in 2020: seasonal raptor closures for 2020 were now lifted.
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Continued from last year closures on Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock:
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
Closures as of June 5, 2019:
The Northern end of North Gateway Rock is closed for raptor nesting.
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
Continued climbing closures from 2018:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open.
Description
This is an exciting route that goes up the steep white face of the Indian Head formation, right of West Point Crack. It begins at an overhang with a new bolt just off the ground.
P1) Crank the overhang, then continue up on easier terrain past a thread for some protection, and another new bolt. Step right to a crack where you can place a #4 Camalot, then continue up to another new bolt. (At this point, the Indian Head Route continues straight up). Traverse right past 2 drilled pitons, and make an exciting move right to a left facing corner. You can place a #0.75 Camalot here, but it's not that great, nor is it too necessary. Climb to the top of the pillar and belay from two bolts and a ring angle piton. (5.9+, 90 feet)
P2) Climb straight up about 12 feet on steep, friable rock to a bolt and a piton. This is pretty exciting and has potential for a factor 2 fall onto the anchor. Traverse right about 10 feet to a left facing corner/flake/groove. It's possible to place a #3 Camalot here, but a few feet higher is another new bolt. Continue up steep, sustained, and loose climbing, past four more new bolts to the obvious saddle in the white rock. (5.10+ R, 70 feet)
Rappel the route. Or climb straight up a slab from the top of the flake on the right and walk off (5.6 R, 40 feet).
P1) Crank the overhang, then continue up on easier terrain past a thread for some protection, and another new bolt. Step right to a crack where you can place a #4 Camalot, then continue up to another new bolt. (At this point, the Indian Head Route continues straight up). Traverse right past 2 drilled pitons, and make an exciting move right to a left facing corner. You can place a #0.75 Camalot here, but it's not that great, nor is it too necessary. Climb to the top of the pillar and belay from two bolts and a ring angle piton. (5.9+, 90 feet)
P2) Climb straight up about 12 feet on steep, friable rock to a bolt and a piton. This is pretty exciting and has potential for a factor 2 fall onto the anchor. Traverse right about 10 feet to a left facing corner/flake/groove. It's possible to place a #3 Camalot here, but a few feet higher is another new bolt. Continue up steep, sustained, and loose climbing, past four more new bolts to the obvious saddle in the white rock. (5.10+ R, 70 feet)
Rappel the route. Or climb straight up a slab from the top of the flake on the right and walk off (5.6 R, 40 feet).
Location
This route is located just right of West Point Crack. Part of the first pitch is shared with the Indian Head route, which continues up and and then left, where the Pipe Route traverses right. The first pitch is high quality. The second pitch is sustained and loose but offers interesting climbing in an excellent position. While the new bolts provide good protection, the second pitch is still a bit run-out and is only recommended if competent at the grade.
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