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Routes in West Side

Credibility Gap S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Green Arrow T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Insignificant But There T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Kor's Korner T,S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Pipe Dreams T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Pipe Route S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Practice Slab TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Short Headwall T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
West Point Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
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Type: Sport, 2 pitches
FA: Gary Zeigler, John Auld, 1960s, FFA: Morgan Gadd, Skip Hamilton, 1970
Page Views: 8,666 total · 42/month
Shared By: Barrett Cooper on Aug 14, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: 2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details

Description

The route begins behind a large boulder about 70' to the right of West Point Crack. The first piton if reached by getting between the boulder and South Gateway Rock and climbing up and left on a steep ramp. From there, follow the obvious line where the white and red sandstone meet and form a crack/edge. This leads to a face climb protected by 4 pins straight up to double anchors. Rap from the anchors or continue up the second pitch.

I have never done the second pitch, but it is rated 5.8 and climbs up and left from the anchors. My guidebook says it goes over a ramp to a wide flake. Also, there is another climb listed in my book that traverses right from the anchors and is rated 5.10d.

  • **Warning*** I have never heard of anyone climbing Credibility Gap and not breaking off a piece of rock. This is the climb that convinced one of my climbing partners to get a helmet...not for leading the route but for belaying. The belayer is forced below the climber between the boulder and South Gateway Rock right in line with anything that gets knocked off.

Protection

A couple of fixed pitons in the crack followed by 4 drilled pins on the face climbing to double anchors.
David Danforth
California/Colorado
David Danforth   California/Colorado
True about the belay stance. I saw someone fall at the 4th pin (I think) just as they were about to clip in. When she fell, her draw slammed to the ground, and I was about 300 feet away, but I heard it hit the ground. Other than that, it's a great climb. Fun. The bolts are a little old, but they are definitely solid. Another one of those routes that plays with your mind if you let it. Oct 31, 2002
The route has gotten a lot of traffic in the past few months and is now relatively clean. I have lead this one over 4 times now without having stuff crumble away in my hands. This route definitely messes with your mind a little. Great route! Recommend to just about anyone. Sep 27, 2003
David Conlin
  5.9-
David Conlin  
  5.9-
I climbed this several times during 1997-1999. Never pulled off a single piece of rock. But my friend says his partner pulled off a sizeable boulder (est. 3-400 lbs.), almost killing his sister. Watch out! Oct 24, 2003
Sirius
Oakland, CA
  5.9+
Sirius   Oakland, CA
  5.9+
Route seemed to be in good shape as of this weekend - 1 out of 3 holds were sandy, but nothing broke off while we were climbing it. Chalk is caked all over the handholds that everybody uses which made me think they've been solid and, hopefully, will continue to be so.

The crux for me was the bit with twin underclings that lead you over a smooth bulge to a sidepull - kind of like climbing a whale's forehead by pulling on her nostrils. And then an eyebrow, I guess. Once past this, it's your choice: left to a mantel move or straight up to sloping pockets. Dec 2, 2003
I found an old beat up carabiner halfway up the first pitch, and I snarfed it. Then the next day I ran into the people who left it there. They were Colorado College girls and they were babes. I was eager to give their biner back, but I didn't have it with me when I met them. So, girls until I see you again, I guess I'll just enjoy the biner. Jun 18, 2004
Steve Marr
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9
Steve Marr   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9
Great climb. Climbed Credibility Gap on June 16th, 2004. The rock was solid, and we didn't have any problems with sandy or brittle holds. The runout to the first bolt can be protected by slinging a blunt horn about 1/2 way up from the ground. Additionally, there is another pot hole between the last pin and the anchor that will provide a little security for the final moves to the anchor. The last two pins are about 18" apart, and the upper pin is a little loose. Well worth the time. Jul 11, 2004
Drizake
  5.9+
Drizake  
  5.9+
I just had my first successful lead climb on credibility and it was awesome!! There were almost no loose rocks and the pitons were in good shape. A piece of advice though...ensure you have decent size biners as the eyelets at the first belay are HUGE! I spent a couple of minutes and too much energy trying to get myself clipped in. I found the crux to be at the third or fourth piton where you have twin holes. A little sketchy for my lead skills, but trusting my grip finally got me through it!! I was so psyched to finally make it to the top of Cred. without falling. Highly recommend this climb!!! Oct 27, 2004
One of the Garden's best. CG is a nostalgic climb for me, as it pillowed my first fall on lead.

Climb this after work for the best place in all of the Front Range to watch winter sunsets. It's just you, the Piker, and the first stars of evening.... Aye! Jun 28, 2005
Larry Shaw
  5.9
Larry Shaw  
  5.9
Climbed this one for the first time today. I don't know why I've waited so long to get on it but this route is one of the better ones in the [Garden]. We climbed [Crescent] .9+ the same day and this felt much easier, guess it because the feet are better on this one. Jul 28, 2005
Led this one yesterday. It sure felt like a long way to that first bolt, even though it's fairly easy climbing. Overall, great moves and great rock. It was fun to do something a bit more vertical and a little less slabby in the Garden. Terrific view of Pikes as others have mentioned. Mar 4, 2007
England
?
 
England   ?
 
The warning about the loose rock can probably be disregarded by now. All of the loose stuff seems to have be cleaned by the high volume of climbers on this route. However, it is the "Garden", always be cautious in this area. Nov 7, 2008
mountainmicah83
Colorado Springs
  5.9+
mountainmicah83   Colorado Springs
  5.9+
We climbed the second pitch last week June 17, 2010. As always, the first pitch was classic, but the second was super loose. There weren't any people below, and we had to toss out a few large chunks behind the large flake that were threatening to either fall and cut the rope or naturally release and kill a belayer. It is much cleaner now but still very brittle. Prepare for the surprise balancy finish. Bring a couple of cams! From the top, you can 4th class up the south ridge to the summit and then sling the rock and rap back down. The 2 humongous eyes will get you down with 2 X 60 meters! Jun 21, 2010
mountainmicah83
Colorado Springs
  5.9+
mountainmicah83   Colorado Springs
  5.9+
I was up there on 9/17 and about 2/3 of the way up, one of the underclings that I used to like was gone. Although it was fun figuring a new way to climb, it was sad to see a big chunk gone with fresh signs of breakage. Remember to have a pretty big biner on this route to clip to the anchors for personal pro 'cause they are huge. Also, if you are toproping off of these anchors, please stop. You are cutting into them. Set your own anchors like on all other routes and the last person can double rope down, thus alleviating the friction on the pro!

Peace Sep 20, 2010
mountainmicah83
Colorado Springs
  5.9+
mountainmicah83   Colorado Springs
  5.9+
Yesterday the last piton was a little wiggly in its hole. It's fine because there is one a few feet below, and it fits with the rest of the Garden pro anyhow.

I figured I would just throw this out, because that last piton is the crux, and if you are a newer 5.9+ leader, this would be the most likely piece you would fall on.

Last, be careful with the left hand hold just below that wiggly piton. It is going to break any day now. Either skip it or grab at the very lower left part of it. Nov 1, 2010
Tim Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Tim Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
Que Horror!

The big flake one used to grab from underneath and then stand on to clip the anchors broke off and left a jagged chunk remaining. Chains have been added to the anchors to allow you to clip without going any higher than the wide ledge there. A key hold just below also has a hairline crack all the way through it. Yearrrgh!

This route is deteriorating pretty quickly, though I can't say I'm surprised given the quality of the soft, red sandstone on South Gateway. I think I am done climbing this one. I was so gripped I farted multiple times on lead in front of my chick friend. Mar 12, 2012
While I was sitting on top of Montezuma Tower this past weekend, I heard a loud bang. I looked over and saw a large cloud of dust rising from the base of Credibility Gap. The climber was on a top rope and no one at the base was hit, but the piece pulled off must have been pretty large to make that much noise. Apr 17, 2012
youtube.com/watch?v=tZ9FP17…

That was me climbing Credibility Gap. It's true about rocks coming off, haha.

I was just starting the second pitch too. :( Sep 7, 2012
Bosier Parsons
Colorado Springs, CO
5.8+
Bosier Parsons   Colorado Springs, CO
5.8+
Cool video, Brenden, but (unless I'm mistaken) it appears you were actually starting a climb called Dog Day Afternoon (5.11a), which traverses right from the first anchor on Credibility Gap. The second pitch of Credibility goes up and left to the large flake/chimney/right-facing corner and then on up. Just wanted to clarify for others. Cheers! Sep 7, 2012
Kris Kemp
all over the place lately
Kris Kemp   all over the place lately
Did not see any bolts/pitons to the left from the first belay station. Had to rap down. Very confused. Is the second pitch trad? Sep 25, 2012
Thanks for the review, Bosier. I think I will climb this route again, and check it out. 'Cept this time I will stay off the Red Rock side of the climb ;) and go left if I can. Oct 1, 2012
Kirtis Courkamp
Golden
 
Kirtis Courkamp   Golden
 
Broke off a key hold. I don't think it will make the route any harder though. Apr 9, 2013
handyhansen
Vail, CO
 
handyhansen   Vail, CO
 
Such a sweet route, one of my favorites. I try to get on this every time I'm in the area. A little heady with some sweet moves up top. And who doesn't love a double knee bar!!!!!?? Sep 10, 2013
cslice
Longmont, CO
cslice   Longmont, CO
This is a fantastic climb, although the long runout to the first piton always feels spooky. Does anyone have any beta on how to protect it? Or was there once another piton? Oct 20, 2013
Really nice climb with a few loose rocks. Pulled one unintentional, but the scary thing about this climb is the last bolt. It's pretty loose, and Im not confident that it will hold if you fall off the last slopers.

@cslice: I protected it with one big nut at the big block on the ledge. Before this, there's nothing. Then one #5 cam into a pocket. If you want a simple start, I'd start a little bit to the right in the crack. Nov 6, 2013
Andrew Ishimaru
Colorado Springs, Colorado
  5.9+
Andrew Ishimaru   Colorado Springs, Colorado
  5.9+
Oh man. This was my first climb ever... I went up in running shoes and borrowed gear on top rope after lead belaying a friend (can't believe she trusted me after a five minute how-to). Kind of a sketch start, and the holds get pretty scoped out up top, but always a good climb. Would recommend. Feb 28, 2014
Graham Montgomery
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9
Graham Montgomery   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9
P1 is a super fun climb. P2 looked like it was on pretty shitty rock. My only complaint is the runout to the first bolt. Not hard just spooky. Sep 21, 2017
PiesDeGato
CS, Co
PiesDeGato   CS, Co
Just a heads up: looks like someone took a whip on Credibility Gap on Sunday, the clip just past the potholes was blown out.

It could possibly be protected with some trad gear in those pockets. There's a sheared pin right below the anchors as well. Oct 16, 2017
Dan Swann
Colorado Springs
Dan Swann   Colorado Springs
In regards to the fixed pin that was pulled a few months back, the rock failed, not the piton. The failure was do to its proximity to the large hueco at the beginning of the crux section. We drilled for the new glue-in today but were unable to place it do to the forecasted temperatures (need 40 degrees or higher for 48 hours). When we get that window, it will be placed. Till then, the crux easily protects with a #3. We will also be placing new anchors to remove the eye sore of the current anchor. I’ll will update the post when the new bolts are in. Jan 18, 2018
Dan Swann
Colorado Springs
Dan Swann   Colorado Springs
The new glue-in bolts are now in place, and the anchor bolts have been changed out. There was a tag on the first pin notifying climbers that the glue was setting and asking them to not climb it for 48 hours. This tag was stolen in that 48 hour period. PLEASE if you know who took it, sell them out; it is theft. We don’t need that in our climbing community. Climbing on the bolts before the glue sets compromises everyone’s safety. Apr 14, 2018

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