Type: Sport
FA: Unpublished
Page Views: 1,321 total · 6/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Oct 24, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


50 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Stormy Weather takes the arete and face on the left side of Surreal Estate Wall. While the easiest way up the wall, and usually given less recognition than the bigger brothers on the main wall, Stormy is actually a very interesting climb. Hike up the face on edges where you can choose to stem off left or stay straight up on the face. Logic foe me uses the stem since it is well within reach and a real contrivance to avoid. Good moves on corners and edges gains a switch to the left, really on the arete. Power up a bulge on good Shelf Road pockets. What makes the line interesting in my mind is the position of the climbing and the diversity of the rock. Just as good as the big boys on the right, and probably never harder than 11a.

Protection

Eight to ten draws and a rope.

Photos

If you attack this straight on at the first bolt it involves cranking on some pretty small holds (a mono and a shallow bi at one point). I'd say it's very stiff for 11a at the start done this way, while the rest is never harder than 10+ (like the roof above). For my height and reach (over 5'9" w/ negative ape) I found that if you were to climb stemming to the left, you wouldn't be able to clip until the second bolt. Definately a worthy line any way it's done. Mar 31, 2003
Matt Richardson
Longmont, CO
Matt Richardson   Longmont, CO  
I will concur with Jesse - this route is definitely not 10d if you attack this straight on. I think this might be due to the fact that the original route was retrobolted. The first clip is definitely tough and sequency (and I am 6'2"). Oct 29, 2007
reiko  
Good climbing, spicy bolting. The book says 8 bolts, there are currently 9. Mar 30, 2015
the schmuck
Albuquerque, NM
 
the schmuck   Albuquerque, NM
 
The start on this is pretty hard, very thin, and not anywhere in the neighborhood of 11a or 11 anything for that matter. Saving grace is the weird but engaging roof. Feb 29, 2016
Adam Block
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Adam Block   Colorado Springs, CO
 
All the bolts seem to avoid the natural line. They're around the corner from the easy side of the arete and are too far left from the easiest way to attack the roof. Movement at the roof is just okay but not worth the blah beginning. Dec 29, 2016