Type: Sport
FA: Bob D'Antonio
Page Views: 8,507 total · 40/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on May 3, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


134 Opinions

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Description

This is a beautiful line up the left side of Surreal Estate Wall (the third big clean wall reached from the standard North side approach). The belayer relaxes on inclined rock as the leader tackles the continual cruxes. A few shakeouts can be found and will certainly help. The first crux pulls through on pockets, a mid-bouldery crux pulls edges before reaching a final overlap and the third major crux overlap. It is sequential, pumpy, and awesome!

Protection

10 bolts to 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

One of my favorite routes at Shelf. Very sustained and sequential.I don't think there is a move of 5.12 on it but 90% of it is in the 11c/d range and the moves are not real obvious on the on-sight.Clipping stratagy is crucial. Dec 26, 2001
Joe Collins
  5.12a
Joe Collins  
  5.12a
Awesome route. This climb reminds me of Hot Bitch on the Beach at Cactus Cliff... no real stopper crux but lots of 11+ climbing. Shorter climbers may find the middle crux to be pretty reachy. Oct 27, 2003
Rob Kepley
Westminster,CO
  5.12a/b
Rob Kepley   Westminster,CO
  5.12a/b
Very continuous at the grade with few good rests. Doesn't really let up until you clip the chains. Quite a bit harder than its neighbor Unusual Weather. Quality climb. Dec 31, 2007
Jay Park
Boulder, CO
  5.12a/b
Jay Park   Boulder, CO
  5.12a/b
One of my favorite routes at Shelf, as well. One of the most consistent route for the grade at Shelf, in my opinion. At 5'8" with normal ape index, I found crux moves a little reachy, but doable if I knew where to go for. Definitely difficult to on-sight if you are pushing the grade. The last crux move is pretty awesome and desperate, if you are pumped, so rest well before. Oct 15, 2008
Reminiscent of Pay Homage at Castlewood, though a touch easier. Oct 15, 2008
Kai Huang
Aurora, CO
 
Kai Huang   Aurora, CO
 
11 bolts to 2 biners anchor. Apr 26, 2009
Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
  5.12a/b
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
  5.12a/b
I onsighted both about 15 years ago and would say that Heavy Weather is slightly harder. Both have an obvious reachy crux, but Heavy weather is more sequential and does not have the rest that Pay Homage has. But then again, I also onsighted McFly .12d and Suedehead .12d at Shelf Road and think McFly was a little harder, due to it not being "my style". May 14, 2009
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
  5.12a
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
  5.12a
Probably the best .12 I've done at Shelf, ultra-classic! Mar 18, 2012
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
This route is amazing! I have done a lot of routes at Shelf, and this could potentially be the best I have done. In a nutshell, it's absolutely perfect pocket pulling on bullet hard, perfect stone for 75 feet with sequential, cool, lockoffy type moves. Freakin' amazing!!! Do it.... Oct 25, 2012
Jack Sparrow
denver, co
  5.12b
Jack Sparrow   denver, co
  5.12b
This climb is magnificent potentially one of the best routes I've ever done. The moves are super fun, and the rock is great. On a side note, to compare this and Pay Homage at crumblewood is ludacris. Pay Homage is a sharp, shitty chosspile of a route. Whereas Heavy Weather is absolutely stunning with great rock. The moves on both were slightly similar, but the rock quality and lack of sharp as shit holds is what makes this route a classic and Pay Homage a pile. May 28, 2013
Ludacris like the rapper? Or ludicrous like the adjective?

I recall Pay Homage being pretty darn good not ludicrous, but Heavy Weather is awesome, great stone.... May 29, 2013
Julia
 
Julia  
 
Wow, this is a wonderful climb. One big move to a huge pocket from a bad sidepull for us shorties. Pulling hard from start to finish. May 26, 2015
gumbotron
Golden, CO
  5.12a/b
gumbotron   Golden, CO
  5.12a/b
Wow, great panel of rock with awesome moves. This would rival face climbs at Smith, The Red, or The New. Dec 12, 2016
michalm
Boulder, CO
 
michalm   Boulder, CO
 
Excellent route, terrible first bolt placement. Feb 25, 2018
Branty
Boulder, CO
 
Branty   Boulder, CO
 
Ooh, what a treat! Tricky mid-route hard part for us shorties but lots of fun! Not bad in the sun. Mar 26, 2018