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Routes in The Bank

1979 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
2010A S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
2112 S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
2150 A.D. S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
5.10 Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
5.10a corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
5.11 Arete S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
5.9 crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
A Sharp S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Abu Simbel S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Aerial Solution S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Alcohollica S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Alfalfa Omega S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Another Bolted Crack T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Aoxamoxoa S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Apple Cracks, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Aspiring Frog S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
B Flat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
B/C S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Baby Face Nelson S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Back To The Future S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bambi Meets Godzilla S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Binge and Purge S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Birthing the Piggy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bits and Pieces S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Hole Sun S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bridget the Midget S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
British Persuasion S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bum Cakes (formerly listed as Buns) S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Burnt Toast S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Butch Cassidy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
C Major T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
CJ & The Lesbian Seagull S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cat Ate My Homework, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cerebral Brain Freeze S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Concentrated Weirdness S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Corner Blitz S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Courage and Enlightenment S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crab Nation S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dancin` Shoes S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dave Dangle S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Deconstructing Harry S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Desserter S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dillinger S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Deed S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Disciples of Hell S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Doggie Style T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Don Show, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dust Lust S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Emperor's Robe S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Energy Before Ecstasy S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Ethics? What Ethics? S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Feverish S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flesh Tuxedo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
From Russia With Love S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Future Fossil S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gambino S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gen X ation (aka Musso Route) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Generation X S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ginger Midget, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Goodfellas S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Harry S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Heaven is Waiting S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Heavy Weather S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Heretic S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hostile Crankover S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
I Have a Dream S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ice Cream Hangover S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Incredible Weather S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jesse James S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kicker S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Killer Chihuahua S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Knot Too Many Roaches S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Ladies' Night In Buffalo S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Large Marge S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Le Petit Verdon S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Le Pincher S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Lefty S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Lesser of Two Evils S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Let Me Out S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leverage S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lick and a Promise S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lime Street S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Living in America S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lloyd T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lost Planet Airman S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Louis XIV S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Loves Me Like a Rock S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lynch Mob S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ma Barker S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Machine Gun Kelly S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
McFly S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Metamusso S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mighty Aphrodite S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mighty Mouse S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Misery S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mismatched Partners S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
My Versailles Guy S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Neopolitan Headrush S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
New Comer (aka New Corner) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
No Future for the Timid S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
No Rest For the Wicked S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Number 1 Super Guy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
On the Mushroom S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
On the Ritz S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Once Upon a Time S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Otis S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Peking S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pennies and Piggydust T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Peter Pan S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pig City Nights S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pink Torpedo S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
PiƱon Slalom S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plate Tectonics S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Poncho S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Poncho and the Three Perverts S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Power Broker S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Prestevious T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Pretty Boy Floyd S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Primal Scream S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Project Focus S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Puking Yuppies T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Pullin' Down in the Fields of Cotton S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Purple Packer Smacker S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Purple Reign S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Quickstrike S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
R.A.M.M. S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rack, The S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Ragnar S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Razor Burn (aka Stewart's Slab) S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Richter Scale S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ripped S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rock Frog S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Scarf and Barf S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Scarface S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scavenger's Daughter S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scramblin' Fran S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Season Down Under S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shady Character S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shelf Life T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shelfish S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sicilian Style S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Silver Rain S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sleeper S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slot Machine S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Solitude S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sonic Youth S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Soprano S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sparkle In The Rain S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sparky S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Starving Hippies S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Staying Power S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stick It S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stomach Stapler S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stormy Weather S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stranger in Moscow S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sty in the Sky S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
SuedeHead S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Surreal Estate S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sweepings, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Taping Tendons S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Team Anorexia S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tendon Respite S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Thank You, Minneapolis! S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
They Only Come Out At Night S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
This is Your Brain S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Three Old Dogs S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thunder Tactics S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Thunder Thighs S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tired Arms Recovery Program (T.A.R.P.) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tribal Boundary S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Trundle S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Tuff Shed (aka B&C) S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Under The Gun S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown 2 S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown 5.7 (Earth Day?) S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown 8+ S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsaid, The (aka The Brothel) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unusual Weather S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ussen S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
War In The Banks S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Welcome to Shelf Road S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
What's Biting Me? S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Who Asked You? S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Why Left S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Will Purr For Treats S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
You Were Meant For Me S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
jasonbecker.com S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport
FA: Bob D'Antonio and Richard Aschert
Page Views: 3,973 total, 20/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Oct 24, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

The middle of the Surreal Estate Wall hosts a striking line that fires up to a wide crack system at 60 ft, this is Unusual Weather, and for what it is worth, a better line in my mind than its harder cousin to the left. Very continuous climbing on pockets and edges takes you up to a horrizontal break. A traverse left gets you to a spot below the crack. Moderate climbing with some unexpected exposure (for the Shelf) gets you up the crack. I ususally find that if anything is cruxy on this route, it comes in the first 40 or 50 feet when the climbing picks up thin pockets and a few thin, flat inclusions. No single move is really 11c, so it may gain a notch or two for continuity to hit 11c. Don't be put off by the opening moves, big reaches for reasonable finger pockets will get you to a good jug pocket just below clip two, however, the opening feet are really marginal. For my style, I find that the best part of the climb lies in the first half dozen bolts. I wish that this excellent line were closer to home since Unusual Weather is well worth doing if you are in the neighborhood.

Protection

Nine to ten draws and a rope.

Per Bob-a: The route was climbed with just three bolts and some tricams in pockets on the FA.

Photos

Ken Trout
Golden, CO
 
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
 
Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
  5.11c
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
  5.11c
I did this in 1996 as part of one of my favorite endurance days, climbing 15 routes between .11a and .12c at the Bank. This was the last route, most were OS, and I was sure that I was going to take a huge whip off the last exit move on the crack going for the anchor. Positive lieback holds on 5.9 is easy, but don't let it fool you, you are going to take a 30+ foot fall if you blow this...more if you have slack out clipping :) Enjoy! Oct 28, 2014
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Got shut down on the onsight 6 bolts up below the crack but daaammnnn fine line. A must do. Nov 4, 2013
dancesatmoonrise
  5.11c
dancesatmoonrise  
  5.11c
Classic. One of the best. Oct 26, 2013
Dan G0D5H411
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11c
Dan G0D5H411   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11c
With Heavy Weather, Staying Power, and Thunder Tactics all in a row, this section of the Bank is 11c heaven! I find it really hard to beat the Bank for density of quality routes in the 11 and 12 range. Dec 17, 2012
Rob Kepley
Westminster,CO
  5.11c
Rob Kepley   Westminster,CO
  5.11c
High quality route on nice wall. Continuous movement up an ever steepening wall with a couple rests. One of the best routes at the bank. Would be a good warm-up for Heavy Weather. Dec 31, 2007
Will Butler
Boulder, CO
Will Butler   Boulder, CO
This is one of the best routes, regardless of the grade, at Shelf Road. For whats is worth, I felt this to be a much better route than its close neighbor Back to the Future. The climbing on Unsual Weather allows for fluid movement up pockets and crimps with a variety of places to shake out. There is also about 15 feet of run-out 5.9 crack climbing to the anchors thrown in for good measure. Additionally, the Surreal Estate Wall has to be one of the most aesthetically pleasing cliffs out here and stays shady until around lunch. Apr 30, 2007
This climb deserves three stars, it is excellent. The opening move is a hard mantle then it is Shelf climbing at its best with great pockets, and fun edging. There seems to be a mini-crux at the upper crack that is thin and powerful. Jan 8, 2002