Type: Sport
FA: Bob D'Antonio and Richard Aschert
Page Views: 4,666 total · 22/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Oct 24, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


156 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

The middle of the Surreal Estate Wall hosts a striking line that fires up to a wide crack system at 60 ft, this is Unusual Weather, and for what it is worth, a better line in my mind than its harder cousin to the left. Very continuous climbing on pockets and edges takes you up to a horrizontal break. A traverse left gets you to a spot below the crack. Moderate climbing with some unexpected exposure (for the Shelf) gets you up the crack. I ususally find that if anything is cruxy on this route, it comes in the first 40 or 50 feet when the climbing picks up thin pockets and a few thin, flat inclusions. No single move is really 11c, so it may gain a notch or two for continuity to hit 11c. Don't be put off by the opening moves, big reaches for reasonable finger pockets will get you to a good jug pocket just below clip two, however, the opening feet are really marginal. For my style, I find that the best part of the climb lies in the first half dozen bolts. I wish that this excellent line were closer to home since Unusual Weather is well worth doing if you are in the neighborhood.

Protection

Nine to ten draws and a rope.

Per Bob-a: The route was climbed with just three bolts and some tricams in pockets on the FA.

Photos

This climb deserves three stars, it is excellent. The opening move is a hard mantle then it is Shelf climbing at its best with great pockets, and fun edging. There seems to be a mini-crux at the upper crack that is thin and powerful. Jan 8, 2002
Will Butler
Boulder, CO
Will Butler   Boulder, CO
This is one of the best routes, regardless of the grade, at Shelf Road. For whats is worth, I felt this to be a much better route than its close neighbor Back to the Future. The climbing on Unsual Weather allows for fluid movement up pockets and crimps with a variety of places to shake out. There is also about 15 feet of run-out 5.9 crack climbing to the anchors thrown in for good measure. Additionally, the Surreal Estate Wall has to be one of the most aesthetically pleasing cliffs out here and stays shady until around lunch. Apr 30, 2007
Rob Kepley
Westminster,CO
  5.11c
Rob Kepley   Westminster,CO
  5.11c
High quality route on nice wall. Continuous movement up an ever steepening wall with a couple rests. One of the best routes at the bank. Would be a good warm-up for Heavy Weather. Dec 31, 2007
Dan 60D5H411
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11c
Dan 60D5H411   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11c
With Unusual Weather, Staying Power, and Thunder Tactics all in a row, this section of the Bank is 11c heaven! I find it really hard to beat the Bank for density of quality routes in the 11 and 12 range. Dec 17, 2012
dancesatmoonrise
  5.11c
dancesatmoonrise  
  5.11c
Classic. One of the best. Oct 26, 2013
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Got shut down on the onsight 6 bolts up below the crack but daaammnnn fine line. A must do. Nov 4, 2013
Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
  5.11c
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
  5.11c
I did this in 1996 as part of one of my favorite endurance days, climbing 15 routes between .11a and .12c at the Bank. This was the last route, most were OS, and I was sure that I was going to take a huge whip off the last exit move on the crack going for the anchor. Positive lieback holds on 5.9 is easy, but don't let it fool you, you are going to take a 30+ foot fall if you blow this...more if you have slack out clipping :) Enjoy! Oct 28, 2014
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
 
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
 
Jon Frisby
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11c
Jon Frisby   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11c
My buddy placed a #1 in the upper crack. Feb 24, 2018