Type: Sport
FA: Bob D'Antonio and Richard Aschert
Page Views: 5,869 total · 26/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Oct 24, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


189 Opinions

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Description

The middle of the Surreal Estate Wall hosts a striking line that fires up to a wide crack system at 60 ft, this is Unusual Weather, and for what it is worth, a better line in my mind than its harder cousin to the left. Very continuous climbing on pockets and edges takes you up to a horrizontal break. A traverse left gets you to a spot below the crack. Moderate climbing with some unexpected exposure (for the Shelf) gets you up the crack. I ususally find that if anything is cruxy on this route, it comes in the first 40 or 50 feet when the climbing picks up thin pockets and a few thin, flat inclusions. No single move is really 11c, so it may gain a notch or two for continuity to hit 11c. Don't be put off by the opening moves, big reaches for reasonable finger pockets will get you to a good jug pocket just below clip two, however, the opening feet are really marginal. For my style, I find that the best part of the climb lies in the first half dozen bolts. I wish that this excellent line were closer to home since Unusual Weather is well worth doing if you are in the neighborhood.

Protection

Nine to ten draws and a rope.

Per Bob-a: The route was climbed with just three bolts and some tricams in pockets on the FA.

Photos