Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Brian Shelton and Stewart Green
Page Views: 860 total · 9/month
Shared By: Dan 60D5H411 on Apr 18, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


34 Opinions

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Description

Scramble up a pile of blocks and make a committing move to clip the first bolt. From here, angle right, then left, then far right, then slightly left towards the anchors. Wacky bolting at the end of the route causes confusion and rope drag.

Location

This route is located just to left of the Surreal Estate wall and to the right of the Once Upon A Time / Staying Power / Sparkle in the Rain buttress.

Protection

6 bolts to 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

First ascent by Brian Shelton and Stewart Green. Jun 26, 2012
Unfortunately whoever put this route in should have learned how trundle. The perched block left behind in the chimney was easy dislodged by a mere bump and rolled right through all of the climbers at the base of Staying Power. There are still 2 big blocks sitting on the ledge at the base. If you're going to bolt routes, do all of the cleaning or don't bolt them at all. Plus, the upper part of the route is botched, too. Feb 17, 2013
the schmuck
Albuquerque, NM
  5.10a
the schmuck   Albuquerque, NM
  5.10a
I think it somewhat cleaned up, as I did not find much choss. Climbs well, but the last two bolt placements make no sense. May 18, 2015