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Routes in The Bank

1979 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
2010A S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
2112 S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
2150 A.D. S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
5.10 Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
5.10a corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
5.11 Arete S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
5.9 crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
A Sharp S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Abu Simbel S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Aerial Solution S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Alcohollica S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Alfalfa Omega S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Another Bolted Crack T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Aoxamoxoa S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Apple Cracks, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Aspiring Frog S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
B Flat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
B/C S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Baby Face Nelson S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Back To The Future S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bambi Meets Godzilla S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Binge and Purge S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Birthing the Piggy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bits and Pieces S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Hole Sun S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bridget the Midget S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
British Persuasion S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bum Cakes (formerly listed as Buns) S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Burnt Toast S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Butch Cassidy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
C Major T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
CJ & The Lesbian Seagull S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cat Ate My Homework, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cerebral Brain Freeze S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Concentrated Weirdness S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Corner Blitz S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Courage and Enlightenment S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crab Nation S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dancin` Shoes S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dave Dangle S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Deconstructing Harry S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Desserter S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dillinger S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Deed S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Disciples of Hell S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Doggie Style T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Don Show, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dust Lust S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Emperor's Robe S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Energy Before Ecstasy S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Ethics? What Ethics? S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Feverish S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flesh Tuxedo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
From Russia With Love S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Future Fossil S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gambino S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gen X ation (aka Musso Route) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Generation X S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ginger Midget, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Goodfellas S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Harry S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Heaven is Waiting S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Heavy Weather S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Heretic S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hicks, Hillbillies, Hobos S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hostile Crankover S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
I Have a Dream S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ice Cream Hangover S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Incredible Weather S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jesse James S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kicker S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Killer Chihuahua S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Knot Too Many Roaches S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Ladies' Night In Buffalo S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Large Marge S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Le Petit Verdon S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Le Pincher S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Lefty S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Lesser of Two Evils S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Let Me Out S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leverage S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lick and a Promise S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lime Street S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Living in America S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lloyd T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lost Planet Airman S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Louis XIV S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Loves Me Like a Rock S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lynch Mob S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ma Barker S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Machine Gun Kelly S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
McFly S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Metamusso S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mighty Aphrodite S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mighty Mouse S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Misery S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mismatched Partners S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
My Versailles Guy S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Neopolitan Headrush S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
New Comer (aka New Corner) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
No Future for the Timid S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
No Rest For the Wicked S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Number 1 Super Guy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Old But Not Dead S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
On the Mushroom S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
On the Ritz S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Once Upon a Time S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Otis S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Peking S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pennies and Piggydust T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Peter Pan S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pig City Nights S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pink Torpedo S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
PiƱon Slalom S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plate Tectonics S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Poncho S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Poncho and the Three Perverts S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Power Broker S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Prestevious T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Pretty Boy Floyd S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Primal Scream S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Project Focus S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Puking Yuppies T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Pullin' Down in the Fields of Cotton S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Purple Packer Smacker S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Purple Reign S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Quickstrike S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
R.A.M.M. S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rack, The S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Ragnar S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Razor Burn (aka Stewart's Slab) S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Richter Scale S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ripped S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rock Frog S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Scarf and Barf S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Scarface S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scavenger's Daughter S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scramblin' Fran S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Season Down Under S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shady Character S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shelf Life T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shelfish S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sicilian Style S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Silver Rain S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sky, Blue Sky S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sleeper S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slot Machine S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Solitude S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sonic Youth S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Soprano S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sparkle In The Rain S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sparky S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stair Master S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Starving Hippies S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Staying Power S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stick It S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stomach Stapler S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Storm Girl S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stormy Weather S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stranger in Moscow S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sty in the Sky S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
SuedeHead S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Surreal Estate S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sweepings, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Taping Tendons S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Team Anorexia S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tendon Respite S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Thank You, Minneapolis! S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
They Only Come Out At Night S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
This is Your Brain S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Three Old Dogs S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thunder Tactics S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Thunder Thighs S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tired Arms Recovery Program (T.A.R.P.) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tribal Boundary S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Trundle S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Tuff Shed (aka B&C) S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Under The Gun S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown 2 S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown 5.7 (Earth Day?) S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown 8+ S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unsaid, The (aka The Brothel) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unusual Weather S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ussen S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
War In The Banks S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Welcome to Shelf Road S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
What's Biting Me? S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
White Dog S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Who Asked You? S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Why Left S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Will Purr For Treats S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
You Were Meant For Me S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
jasonbecker.com S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Darryl Roth, Bob D'Antonio, and Bob Murray
Page Views: 4,192 total · 19/month
Shared By: Adam Holmes on Jan 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is another great route in this section of the Bank by Heavy Weather and Unusual Weather. Surreal Estate climbs like a 12a at Shelf but has one big pocket pull in the middle. I can't remember for sure, but this move may be rather height-dependent. It is more continuous and less crimpy than other 12+'s in the area such as Future Fossil or McFly. I gave it 3 stars on a Shelf Road scale.

Protection

7 bolts.

Photos

Mort
  5.12c
Mort  
  5.12c
Height-dependent - not really. I've done it several times now and I'm just under 5'8". My partner probably does the crux more easily than I can and she is under 5'6". It's a long move, but from a scrunched up position. Two right-footholds to choose from and they are both really high. Great route! May 6, 2004
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
 
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
 
One of the best routes at Shelf. Sep 8, 2007
jhump
  5.12c
jhump  
  5.12c
Guidebook gives it .12c and says "a little soft at the grade." I don't know about that? The mid-way crux felt pretty stout. I use a left hand bowling ball or six pack like grip, right hip to the wall and...just go for for it. What a great route. The finish is wild!
Does the route start straight up without touching the mantel start for Unusual Weather or without using the dihedral to the right? If these holds are off, then the start could be the crux of the route. Jun 25, 2009
jhump, I distinctly remember going straight up at the start as you suggested and the start was pretty hard, but, to me, not the crux. Maybe something has broken. I'll try to give it a look in the next month. If I note anything that seems worthy of mentioning, I'll get back and add a comment. Oct 27, 2009
Jacob Neathawk
Nederland, CO
Jacob Neathawk   Nederland, CO
I tried this route again the other day and couldn't help notice the bolts look a little antiquated, most notably at the bottom of the route. The crux bolt hanger (4th) looks new, but I'm pretty sure it spun when I put the draw on it. I am interested in feedback about whether or not it would be ok to retro bolt this rig. In a separate issue, the bolting at the start of the route seems a little modest. The second bolt of SE is at the same height as the third on Unusual Weather. The climbing is not that hard in this section, but it sure would suck to hit the ground due to a hold breaking while heading to the second bolt. Any objections to adding a bolt above the first and moving the current second bolt location up slightly? Dec 10, 2009
Jacob,

Probably not a good idea:
1. One of Shelf's most classic routes
2. Has probably seen hundreds (or thousands?) of free ascents
3. Was bolted by the area's most renowned first ascensionists....

I think I would leave that one alone.

Rich Dec 10, 2009
Derek Lawrence   Bailey
Jacob

Why don't you ask the FA'ists? Darryl posts on this site and while Bob D no longer does, he is reachable through the forums over on Supertopo.... I'm unsure if this route was rap bolted - a lot of the older Shelf routes were put up ground up using hooks/gear - again I'm unsure in this case.... But I AM sure that it's not good to be adding bolts to routes without the FA's approval. Especially when 2 of the 3 are still very active in the area. Replacing bad bolts is one thing - adding new ones is completely different.... Dec 10, 2009
I appreciate that you checked with me, Jacob. I have no issue with thoughtful retrofitting. I was at Cactus Cliff a couple weeks ago and forgot to check Surreal Estate as I had hoped to, so do what needs to be done and make Shelf Road continue to be a safe and outstanding place to climb. Dec 10, 2009
Allen Hill
FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Allen Hill   FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
What a great route name! Dec 10, 2009
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
I doubt very much that Bob would mind that this route be updated and improved. He is very reachable via MP and other means.

I have done Surreal Estate and agree that adding a bolt to avoid a possible groundfall is a good idea. Many of the Shelf routes of the 80s and early 90s reflected a traditional mindset and featured well spaced or no gear on the moderate climbing. Surreal Estate is from exactly that era. Dec 11, 2009
Jacob Neathawk
Nederland, CO
Jacob Neathawk   Nederland, CO
Thanks everyone, especially Darryl for your thoughtful commentary. Hopefully I can make it down to Shelf next week and update the hardware, weather and work depending. I have sent the ARI an email inquiring about the possibilty of them providing some bolts for this project but haven't heard back yet. Has anyone out there updated a route through the ARI and know the procedure? Specifically, is there a large cache of bolts somewhere that these ARI projects are supplied from or am I supposed to buy them and keep the receipt or what exactly? Dec 11, 2009
Adam Brink
on the road
Adam Brink   on the road
Replacing bolts is one thing but it would be a pity to add more bolts to this route. To call the distance between any of the bolts a runout is quite a stretch. Just because you can't touch one bolt and the next at the same time isn't a reason to add more. Do we really want Shelf to turn into another grid bolted eyesore like most of Boulder Canyon?

I agree with Richard's comments. This has seen hundreds (if not thousands) of ascents. There is no need to add more bolts and to do so would detract from the route and be an eyesore.

If the very short distance between bolt one and two is too much for you, then maybe it is just best to go do another route. Dec 11, 2009
Jacob Neathawk
Nederland, CO
Jacob Neathawk   Nederland, CO
I dont really care that much about adding another bolt to this route, I just noticed the other day that if I blew it right before the secong bolt I was going to deck. I think the main thing is that the rusty, spinning hardware gets updated. I just added that bolt addition piece to see what the consensus was. I'm not trying to detract anything from this amazing route. Dec 11, 2009
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
Re: number of bolts. It is interesting to compare Surreal Estate with 7 bolts to its neighbors, especially Heavy Weather with 10 bolts. This question isn't about grid-bolting or potential eyesores but about potential groundfall. If the consensus emerges that groundfall is not an issue, then it can be left as is. Dec 11, 2009
jhump
  5.12c
jhump  
  5.12c
A great route in its current state. Better with new bolts. Worse with more bolts. That nice little run over very easy and large holds should be no issue for anyone who has any business on 12c. My $.02. Mar 29, 2010
Colin R
Ottawa, ON
Colin R   Ottawa, ON
I really want to try this route some day judging from the description. Mar 22, 2011
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
This route is flipping awesome. Very cool boulder problem in the middle with some cool moves. I found the climb to be a bit fingery at the crux with some sharp holds here and there but overall a really good route. I will put my 2 cents in here and say that this route 100 percent needs a bolt upgrade and some more bolts should be added. There are some questionable looking flakes down low that you use as feet. Another bolt here and there will only make it safer and more of a classic! I will probably bring my drill up this winter and replace them. Anyone know how hard it is getting the old hardwear out and what diameter the old bolts are? Oct 25, 2012
The bolts are 3/8". I can't guarantee success, but rather than trying to pull old bolts on my routes, you may try pounding them into the hole. I tended to over drill on the depth on my earlier routes. A lot of them have enough depth to bury into the rock and then epoxy over with some dust to blend with the natural color. If you try to pull them, there could be considerably more surface damage.
Of course, if I'm wrong, you'll be cursing me for the 1/2 inch shiny thing sticking out. :) Jan 17, 2013
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
Thanks, Darryl. Maybe I will get around to it this year. Just about every time I am in the Bank area I have to spin a lap on this thing. Good contribution though, this route is solid!! May 24, 2013
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
Thanks a bunch to whoever took the effort to rebolt this rig. The route is amazing and now with some bomber new hardware is sure to be hyper classic at Shelf.... Oct 21, 2014
Lenore Sparks
Dolores, CO
 
Lenore Sparks   Dolores, CO
 
I agree with Mort, not height-dependent. I am 5'3'' and managed. The bolting is great! Apr 10, 2016
Mr. Stevens
Boulder, CO
  5.12c
Mr. Stevens   Boulder, CO
  5.12c
The bolt that protects the big toss to the pocket above the mini-roof (bolt 4?) is a spinner and/or doesn't look in the best of shape. I couldn't finger tighten it, consider a wrench if you plan on doing this route. Nov 12, 2017

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