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Routes in The Black Hole

Type: Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,246 total, 6/month
Shared By: Quinn Stevens on Jan 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Revlon is a slightly more difficult variation to Helicopter. It is an interesting problem that requires long, static moves and good body tension.As with many Morrison problems, it's best to have someone tell you exactly where the holds are. Revlon is an eliminate, meaning not everything is on. Nonetheless, this brief description with the picture should suffice.Begin with the same holds as Heli., however, instead of tossing up left, cross up with your right to a sloper with a thumb catch. Good footwork allows you to go up left to a triangle hold, and then right again to a small crimper slot. High step and get your left hand into the lower section of the overhead, diagonal crack. Get a right hand undercling, throw in the kneebar, and finish Helicopter. There is a harder, but very similar version to Revlon called Clairol, at V7.

Protection

Same as Helicopter. Bring a pad and spotter.

Photos

doug rouse
Denver, CO.
doug rouse   Denver, CO.
I was re-reading this, and realized I was talking about "Miss Clariol" which is the only version that I am aware of that uses the lower slot in the "upper rail" (see upper Helicopter hold you make the toss from). The line envolves a toss up with the left hand to the lower hold mentioned above, a right hand undercling..set a right kneebar..toss left hand to upper hold..change kneebar to a toehook, and toss right hand to finish..I know I have probably missed something along the way, but the basic jist is there. I do remember this one feeling like the full value tour! I think V7 is accurate. Peace, Young Doug. Sep 5, 2008
doug rouse
Denver, CO.
doug rouse   Denver, CO.
Sorry..The name is "Lady Revlon", and V6 may be a bit soft...I find this harder than Crank like an Egyptian ( aka CPR ) which is rated more difficult. If it really matters anyway..I go up there an do not recognize anyone anymore anyway. YD. Apr 15, 2008