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Routes in The Black Hole

Type: Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,198 total, 30/month
Shared By: Nate Weitzel on Jan 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


40 Opinions

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Description

Air Jordan starts directly below the finish of Tendonitis Traverse, and right of the Breashears' Crack. Look for two small underclings, and a super small downward crimp. Start with the left on the better undercling, and right hand on the small crimp. Work out the foot beta for the toss up to the rail with the right hand. There is a sweet spot here that makes the move feel better.Then traverse left to a crimper (left hand) but you don't get to use the big jug that is two inches to the left (sorry). Paste your feet on something, and dyno with the left hand up to the well chalked sloper on the smooth face. Immediately get your feet up on the rail, and move your right hand to the opposing sloper with the thumb catch. Pull up, and toss with the right hand for a big crack way up high. Toss for all you are worth, as falling here will not be fun.

This is a very cool route, and once the body position is worked out makes for a great problem.

Protection

Crash pad / spotter. Take great care on this one, because if you blow the final move, you crack your head on a big rock.
cstorms
North Bend, OR
cstorms   North Bend, OR
Thanks for the beta guys. Oct 6, 2008
doug rouse
Denver, CO.
doug rouse   Denver, CO.
My son and I were up there on Sat. and I was able to go up with the left hand off of the underclings, and up to the arete with the right hand. I was forced to match on the "bad" sloper, but it was a fun way to add a little to a sweet little problem. Annette had further beta regarding her "pointless" problem which can also be worked into this line. Sep 29, 2008
doug rouse
Denver, CO.
doug rouse   Denver, CO.
There are two holds along the lip you can go for..The "in" hold is totally sloping, and about 8" right of another slightly "peaked" shaped hold, which also has a tiny seam about 3" above the lip. The peaked hold is a lot easier to grab when Going to the Airport, and you can still reach the finish hold static. Sep 22, 2008
half-pad-mini-jug
crauschville
 
half-pad-mini-jug   crauschville
 
Yo cstorms,

You start with your left on the bigger undercling and your right on the crimp, throw right to the rail, left hand on the farthest left crimp (don't grab the juggy part to the left), bump your right hand over one hold to the left on the rail, then throw left to the sloper, hit the other sloper right, then lunge for the jug at the top... ONE OF THE BEST PROBLEMS HERE... Like Nate said, there is a route called Going to the Airport (V7) that starts on both underclings, right to the rail, don't match and throw to the sloper off the undercling, then finish Air Jordan. There is also a fun contrived variation called 'Magic Johnson'. Aug 10, 2008
cstorms
North Bend, OR
cstorms   North Bend, OR
So...after you hit the rail from the two underclings, you are allowed to traverse left a little? I was jumping for the sloper from the rail directly above the start, and it seemed a little far but doable. Haven't been there with a local to clarify. In the picture with the line markings, it seems you can move left a bit, since there are three lines drawn on the rail...you never know with these Morrison problems. Aug 6, 2008
Both starts are good (either both underclings or the left undercling and the right little crimp). About the same in difficulty, just depends on your strengths. Both go regularly.

Jay Jan 7, 2002
Nate Weitzel  
 
From all of the people that I have seen climb this problem, you can start it as I described. There is a harder version called Going to the Airport, that goes from both underclings up to the crimp, and then directly to the upper sloper without a match (V7). The Air Jordan beta is from many people I have talked with, however if you put up the problem and did it off both underclings then I stand corrected; but since you failed to provide a name, who can tell.

Nov 23, 2001
It actually starts on both the underclings Nov 22, 2001