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Routes in The Black Hole

Type: Boulder
FA: Rufus Miller, winter 1985-1986?
Page Views: 3,335 total, 17/month
Shared By: Nate Weitzel on Dec 5, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

Full Wisdom is a classic endurance testpiece at Morrison. The problem starts under at the far right of the Black Hole, (under the leaning rock) and it traverses up the rock on the overhanging traverse above the Black Hole. Begin on a big hold and move up on easy rock (jugs) until you will find the obvious crux.... A wicked section with a pissy little crimper that will work you. Crank through this section and finish what is known as Upper Wisdom. If you wish, you can start above this crimper crux for the V3 version Upper Wisdom. This is a classic problem and a good challenge.

Protection

A bouldering pad is nice....

Photos

Nolan Robertson  
  V7
That crux move is really hard! Definitely feel like it's on the top side of V7. Oct 21, 2016
I was up here with Jim Garber the day of the Fourmile fire (getting the tour from him), and he said he named the problem as he was also working on "The Wisdom" in Eldo at the same time and felt this was good practice for the climbs 2nd pitch. I wonder if he knows who did the FA; perhaps him since he had the naming rights. Nov 10, 2011
doug rouse
Denver, CO.
doug rouse   Denver, CO.
See..now this is what I like to read! Some very funny stuff here! " pissy little crimper that will work you"..Hilarious!.."run laps to get really strong" yep, I would certainly think so! Sep 5, 2008
half-pad-mini-jug
crauschville
  V7
half-pad-mini-jug   crauschville
  V7
One of the best routes here. Get this one wired and run laps to get really strong.... Aug 10, 2008
chris deulen
Castle Rock
  V8
chris deulen   Castle Rock
  V8
Not a bad idea to have 2 pads in both cruxes, and a person to spot at both locations as well. The lower crux is crimpy and technical, with possible knee scumming, toe hooking, etc. Watch the dab! May 24, 2006