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Routes in The Dungeon

Argenine Dary Party S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blondes' Way T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Diagadoigt S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Green Varlot TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Heather the Leather Nun TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Helm Hammerhand S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
High Boltage S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Iron Maiden, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lichen the Old County S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Norman Rockshoes S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Poor Mr. Bat TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rack, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stocking Stuffer S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
The TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Whackbusher T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Where The Wild Things Are S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wild America S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wild Kingdom S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Sport
FA: Tom Hanson, 1986.
Page Views: 2,904 total · 14/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a good face climb that has some long reaches and tricky footwork. The holds are small pockets and cobbles that are just enough to get you purchase. It is definitely not an easy route compared to other 9s I've done. This climb is located just around the corner on the right (South-facing wall) as you enter the Dungeon from the North.

Protection

3-4 bolts to double anchors.

Photos

Another fun one here in the Dungeon. Beta - There is a little finger pocket in the depression that gets you past the first bolt....tricky. Dec 5, 2001
Definitely a fun and tricky 5.9. Don't sweat the high first bolt on this one - it's 5.4 or so to get to it. The crux comes immediately after clipping this bolt, and can be solved in two or three different ways. Apr 22, 2002
Only three bolts, I swear. But it's super fun and on point with the nine. May 27, 2008
Neil Wachowski
Fort Collins, CO
Neil Wachowski   Fort Collins, CO
Perhaps this route just doesn't play to my strengths, but I had a harder time with the crux on this than The Rack. I finally got it when I found the finger pocket, but it definitely didn't come easily. Maybe I'm missing something. Sep 1, 2008
Stephen Carlos Rydalch
Golden, CO
  5.9+
Stephen Carlos Rydalch   Golden, CO
  5.9+
A very fun route. An interesting, technical crux. Left me wishing for more. May 18, 2009

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