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Routes in The Dungeon
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Argenine Dary Party S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Blondes' Way T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Call of the Wild S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Diagadoigt S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Green Varlot TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Heather the Leather Nun TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Helm Hammerhand S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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High Boltage S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Iron Maiden, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lichen the Old County S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Norman Rockshoes S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Poor Mr. Bat TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rack, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Stocking Stuffer S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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The TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Whackbusher T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Where The Wild Things Are S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Wild America S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Wild Kingdom S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Sport |
| GPS: | 39.34998, -104.75902 |
| FA: | Tom Hanson, 1986. |
| Page Views: | 4,416 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more.
Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal raptor closures with 2025 closure until Aug. 31, 2025
Details
Per Rachel Chaffee, one of the Park Rangers at Castlewood Canyon State Park. We are extending the Morning Sun Wall and Cliff Base Trail closure till the end of August for 2025.
If you have any questions please feel free to reach out to us at 303-688-5242 or dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.us.
Per Castlewood Canyon: there is a new closure for nesting raptors this year: Five and Dime will be closed March 1st through July 31st. If you have any questions please feel free to reach out to me, Rachel Chaffee (Park Ranger) at dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.us or by phone at 303-688-5242.
Per Garrett Garner-Wells:
the current raptor closures, announced by CPW and reported on Denver7:
The following climbing route closures are currently in place:
- Morning Sun Wall is closed March 1-July 31.
- Porky’s Wall is closed March 1 - July 31.
- Vultures Wall is closed March 1-July 31. (per Rachel, CCSP Ranger, dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.use or 303-688-5242)
- Shakespearean Theater is closed March 1-May 31.
- Mind Meld is closed March 1-May 31.
As of 2020:
There is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
If you have any questions please feel free to reach out to us at 303-688-5242 or dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.us.
Per Castlewood Canyon: there is a new closure for nesting raptors this year: Five and Dime will be closed March 1st through July 31st. If you have any questions please feel free to reach out to me, Rachel Chaffee (Park Ranger) at dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.us or by phone at 303-688-5242.
Per Garrett Garner-Wells:
the current raptor closures, announced by CPW and reported on Denver7:
The following climbing route closures are currently in place:
- Morning Sun Wall is closed March 1-July 31.
- Porky’s Wall is closed March 1 - July 31.
- Vultures Wall is closed March 1-July 31. (per Rachel, CCSP Ranger, dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.use or 303-688-5242)
- Shakespearean Theater is closed March 1-May 31.
- Mind Meld is closed March 1-May 31.
As of 2020:
There is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
Description
This is a good face climb that has some long reaches and tricky footwork. The holds are small pockets and cobbles that are just enough to get you purchase. It is definitely not an easy route compared to other 9s I've done. This climb is located just around the corner on the right (South-facing wall) as you enter the Dungeon from the North.
Protection
3 bolts with no anchor on top. Use the two bolt anchor for Green Varlot to the left (short, easy traverse) or the weird two bolt chain anchor for The Iron Maiden on top of the block.
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